Destinations Magazine

Les Enfants Rouges in the 3rd: 3 Wows and a Whoopee.

By Johntalbott

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I was at the "new" Enfants Rouges in the 3rd its opening week amost 3 months ago and as others have noted, places frequently get much better with time - and indeed this was; the bumps in the road then - waits between courses and a non-functioning credit card machine - are evened out, although the sound levels when more than 6 people are talking is awful, however the food, while completely different, was just as good if not better. We were started off with amuses of soups of potatoes with bacon cream and a very nice Gaillac (with neat eyes and a button nose).

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All of chose to start out with the previously sauteed on the skin side daurade, served room temperature on great pasta with a condiment of chives, green fish eggs, shallots were they? and vinegar was it?  Terrific.  Then my long-suffering wife had scallops with cauliflower, brussel sprouts, sliced raw mushrooms and fish eggs which she declared the "best of" 2013 and the three boys had the civet of biche in a sauce of such dark richness it was almost wicked to eat.

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Then we went our separate ways; two having the nut cake/cookies; two the baba - both were really over the top.

With decent bread, 2 bottles of wine, 2 coffees and no bottled water the bill per couple comes to 102 E.

P.S. Even on Monday when the Marche des E R is supposed to be closed, the traiteur marocain was in business, so dinner for at least two nights is certain.

 


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