Destinations Magazine

Les Deserteurs in the 11th: The Incredible Lightness of Being, Eating and Pricing.

By Johntalbott

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Les Deserteurs, as everyone knows by now, was founded by some guys from Le Sergent Recruteur and as we entered we were warmly greeted by chef Daniel Baratier and Alexandre Céret, who has transfered his sommelier know-how here.  The garden in the back was quite lovely today and we were on our way with their no-choice menu.

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The first "course" was a lemonaide with elderflower - "huh?," you say - well into a glass our host spritzed (as with a seltzer bottle) this foam (I'm sure molecular/etc/etc) that looked like a lemon mousse but slowly reduced itself to 5 swallows of intensely flavored (with sureau=eldertree) aide; then trumpet zucchinis (long thin with some yellow flower) sauteed in another intensely flavored sauce with purple basil; a chunk of tuna cooked on the outside, raw on the inside with a puree of beans and ginger; and what I'd call a clafoutis (but they called a tart) of wild prunes with elderflower ice cream.

Our bill, now realize that a four course lunch with one glass of wine and a coffee is 35 E, so our bill for three of us with another bottle of wine, was 127 E or 84.66 E a couple.  This is great food from great people at great prices.


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