As I reported last month after much more than a decade Francois Bonfillou (who trained under Robuchon at the George V and was dazzling at the start but got tired at the end I guess) turned the keys of Le Marsangy in the 11th over François Loussert, Jean-luc Josse et Sandrine Muriel Zakri this summer. Our guest exclaimed on entering - "it's no longer like Grandma's house" which was practically my subhead last month. And also, the chalkboards (a la carte and "menu") looked totally different.
Our friend started off with a clever preparation of onion stuffed with chevre in a pumpkin sauce with bits of ham thrown in; Colette had shaved heirloom beets that needed salt and perhaps a bit of a boost from something like Sriracha and I had the special of the day, onion soup. "Is it classique?" asked I. "Yes." Well it was very good but deconstructed, not burning the roof of my palate off.
Then Colette had the fish of the day, a merlan, with fennel and our friend and I each had the quail stuffed with mushrooms and leeks; both very very nice.
For desserts, we shared the crement d'Anjou with strawberries and a tarte tatin,
With a bottle and a half of Dom. Jean David, no bottled water but three coffees (offered), our bill was 131 E, or 87.32 E.
