Destinations Magazine

Le Cabanon De l'Ecailler in the 14th: Very Fine Products from Marenne-Oleron: My Streak is Unbroken.

By Johntalbott

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6.5 Le Cabanon de l'Ecailler, 14, place Constantin-Brancusi in the 14th (Metro: Gaite), 01.43.20.52.17, closed Sunday nights and Mondays, is the second to La Cagouille where David Herve (who if I'm not mistaken, used to sell his bivalves from a table in the Square/Place) has a largely outside area under an awning with heaters.

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One has a sense of being in a jungle hut on the Brittany coast inhabited (this afternoon) by my age-group let out of their "homes" for the afternoon.

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There is a regular carte, plus a daily menu at 15 E, plus an ardoise with various interesting specials - today a salad of tomatoes and lettuce with various crustaceans and a fish soup with the usual.

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Two of us had the fish soup which we both deemed needed salt and papper and indeed with their addition, it was darn good; thick and punchy.  M. had the Casier plate that consisted today of langoustines, red shrimp (they were out of crab) and 3 Speciales No 4 at the same price as the Fines they were out of.  Madame had a generous portion of red shrimp and I 6 Speciales No 4 which came with butter than was undistnguished but bread that was.

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With no dessert or bottled water, one Illy coffee and two bottles of fine Gros Plant our bill was 98.50, thus 65.666666666 E a couple.

Go?  Absolutely; even on a blustery, cold, rainy gray day - hey, you think you're in Brittany.


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