As popular as Vindaloo is, the fact of the matter is that fish curry is one of the foundation dishes in Goan cuisine.
And at its heart is those hot, spicy and tangy flavors we have come to associate with this cuisine. So beloved is the gravy that sometimes the fish is foregone all together eaten simply with white rice.
Goa in western India is as coastal as it gets. In the garb of traders (no surprise here) Goa was invaded by the Portuguese where it remained a Portuguese territory up until 1961 where it was annexed back to India. The Portuguese influence is clear in its food – from cured sausages, dried meats. But the Goans took these Portuguese influences and molded a cuisine entirely their own. Coconut, hot red chilies, spices and vinegar is at the heart of the flavors. Not to mention their famous spicy sausages & cashew hooch, feni. Gotta love these guys!
Their curry is one I love but there are some things you should know before you begin.
Fresh grated coconut, red chilies, garlic and spices is ground to a fine paste with vinegar and water. The consistency of this is paste is critical which should be only of almost a slurry rather than a pesto like paste.
Did I mention that the number of dried red chilies traditionally used can range anywhere from 10-50?! Since none of us claim lead lined bellies we’re sticking to a measly 6! I know – chicken me!
The masala paste is then sautéed in oil – it is not traditional to sauté onions but you can if you wish. Stalwarts will do nothing to mellow the strong full bodied robust flavors of the gravy – hot/spicy/tangy with the likes of coconut milk. But I like to add a can to lighten things up a bit.
The thing I love about this gravy and you know I cook ‘em up from all over, is that I find the flavors incredibly tantalizing for the taste buds. Which now brings us to choice of fish. A oily fish should be used and Spanish Mackerel or King Mackerel is at the top of the list – steaks, not fillets.
I’m making this in May and all my King Mackerel are busy spawning off the coast of Florida and I don’t see any coming back my way to sacrifice themselves in my pot, so I am using Pomfret steaks which are also wonderful and traditionally can be used in this gravy.
You don’t want to substitute with white fish that though is rich in Omega-3’s has the oil in much small quantities residing in their cells. Oil in the Oily fish however constitutes 30% of the weight of the and the oil resides not only in the cell structure but also fills up the belly cavity.
The curry as it simmers comes to life once the fish steaks are added and along with then raw green mango slices which are just delicious!
I taught this in my class over the weekend and was surprised by the number of peeps who came back for more mango and gravy over their rice.
So much for that misnomer of blah Caucasian palates!
Gather the ingredients,
2-1/2 to 3 lbs oily fish steaks - King Mackerel or Pomfret or Chilean sea bass in a pinch, 2 tsp salt, ½ cup frozen diced green raw mango or fresh raw green mango peeled & sliced into wedges, 1 can coconut milk + 3 cups water OR 4 cups water only, 2-3 tsp sugar, 1 tsp salt, 1-2 tsp red chilly powder (if more spicy heat is desired) & 1/4 cup oil
Masala Paste: 6+ whole dried Red Chillies (Bedki if available), 1 cup grated fresh or frozen (defrosted) Coconut, 1 inch piece of fresh ginger root, 4 pods peeled garlic or 1 tbs chopped garlic, ½ tsp whole black peppercorns, 1-1/2 tsp coriander seeds, ½ tsp dried fenugreek seeds, 2 tbs tamarind pulp 1/2 tsp turmeric powder, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1 tsp salt, 1/4 cup of more vinegar & 3/4 cup water for grinding masala paste( use in batches as demonstrated)
Fish: Ask the fishmonger to cut the fish steaks no more than ½” thick. Wash and drain the fish fillets, rub with salt on all sides and set aside.
Masala paste: Use a grinder that is capable of making very fine pastes. Add all the ingredients to the bowl, add vinegar and ¼ cup water and process to a fine paste – a slurry. Add ¼ up water and process again. Repeat a final time. This is too ensure as fine a paste as possible without lumps.
In a deep pan, heat oil until fuming. Add the masala paste and sauté for 5-7 minutes until fragrant. Add the coconut milk if using + water. Add the sugar, salt & additional red chilly powder if desired.
On medium-high heat bring to a rolling boil. Gently drop in the fish steaks and raw mango. Cook for about 7-10 minutes until fish is opaque, flaky and cooked. Taste and adjust seasonings.
Drizzle with 1 tbs coconut oil.Serve with fried fish and steamed rice.
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Recipe for
Goan Fish Curry
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Serves 4-6
2-1/2 to 3 lbs oily fish steaks - King Mackerel or Pomfret or Chilean sea bass in a pinch
2 tsp salt
½ cup frozen diced green raw mango or fresh raw green mango peeled & sliced into wedges
1 can coconut milk + 3 cups water OR 4 cups water only
2-3 tsp sugar
1 tsp salt
1-2 tsp red chilly powder (if more spicy heat is desired)
1/4 cup oil
Masala Paste:
6+ whole dried Red Chillies (Bedki if available)
1 cup grated fresh or frozen (defrosted) Coconut
1 inch piece of fresh ginger root
4 pods peeled garlic or 1 tbs chopped garlic
½ tsp whole black peppercorns
1-1/2 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp dried fenugreek seeds
2 tbs tamarind pulp 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp salt
1/4 cup of more vinegar
3/4 cup water for grinding masala paste( use in batches as demonstrated)
Preparation:
Fish: Ask the fishmonger to cut the fish steaks no more than ½” thick. Wash and drain the fish fillets, rub with salt on all sides and set aside.
Masala paste: Use a grinder that is capable of making very fine pastes. Add all the ingredients to the bowl, add vinegar and ¼ cup water and process to a fine paste – a slurry. Add ¼ up water and process again. Repeat a final time. This is too ensure as fine a paste as possible without lumps.
Method:
In a deep pan, heat oil until fuming. Add the masala paste and sauté for 5-7 minutes until fragrant. Add the coconut milk if using + water. Add the sugar, salt & additional red chilly powder if desired.
On medium-high heat bring to a rolling boil. Gently drop in the fish steaks and raw mango. Cook for about 7-10 minutes until fish is opaque, flaky and cooked. Taste and adjust seasonings.
Drizzle with 1 tbs coconut oil. Serve with fried fish and steamed rice.
Enjoy!
