Peak Freaks team leader Tim Rippel lays out the plans on the South Side. He reports that his climbers moved up to Camp 2 yesterday and the are likely still there today. The winds remain high but are expected to dissipate in the next few days. If the forecasts hold true, rope fixing to the summit will likely be complete by Thursday, which could pave the way for the first teams to go up as early as Friday. Tim says that the weather reports seem to currently indicate that this will be a wide window, which means there will be plenty of time for all the teams to get their turn on top. He also reported that the trip through the Icefall yesterday was safe and secure, with few problems. That's good news for those about to follow behind.
Eric Simonson with IMG is reporting nearly the exact same thing. Their squad is taking a rest day in Camp 2 today as well and the Sherpas responsible for opening the route are there prepping for the final steps. The winds should die down tomorrow and the first summits of the season should take place on Thursday when the fixing team reaches the summit. Everyone seems to be in good spirits and are simply waiting for their chance.
Similarly, the Altitude Junkies are reporting in from the North Side and say that their team has all moved to Advanced Base Camp. The report that the fixing teams on that side of the mountain are expecting to top out around the 17th as well, and that the first commercial squads will be hitting the summit by the end of the week too. After spending the day in ABC today, they'll likely head up to North Col tomorrow and be in position by Friday.
On the West Ridge, things are bit more unsettled. You may recall that there are two teams attempting that route this year, one from Nat Geo and Northface and the other sponsored by Eddie Bauer. Both of those squads are weighing their options at the moment and evaluating the route, which doesn't appear to be in the best of conditions. Hopefully they'll still take a crack at it, but it is possible that no one will go up the West Ridge this season.
Finally, Alan Arnette, who continues to have the best coverage of Everest this season bar none, is reporting that a Chilean team on the South Side is moving to climb the mountain before the ropes are fixed to the summit. As you can imagine, that is a dangerous proposition but apparently the team feels that this is a very short weather window and that it may be the only one of the season, so they're willing to take the risk. Lets hope that they don't climb if conditions are not right and that they keep everything in perspective.
Good luck to everyone heading up the mountain on either side. The next few days are going to be very interesting to say the least.
These articles might interest you :
One of the major milestones each year on Everest is the completion of the route through the Khumbu Icefall. For those who aren't aware of what I'm referring... Read moreBy Kungfujedi
Yesterday we received word that the route through the Khumbu Icefall is now open and climbers can are free to begin their acclimatization ascents up to Camp... Read moreBy Kungfujedi
Can't get enough coverage on Everest this season? Are the reports from ExWeb, Alan Arnette and your's truly not enough to satiate your appetite for all things... Read moreBy Kungfujedi
Ever since I first set my eyes on Mount Everest, towering menacingly 8848 metres above sea level, my desire to climb it has been huge. Read moreBy Exceedpossibility
This past weekend brought another round of surprises for climbers in the Himalaya this spring, particularly on Everest. Conditions on the mountain caused one... Read moreBy Kungfujedi
It has been a tumultuous and interesting few days in the Himalaya to say the least. The decision for Himex to pull out of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse has had... Read moreBy Kungfujedi
Last year I wrote a satirical piece for Gadling about a man who wanted to ride his mountain bike up Everest. That was an April Fools day post that managed to... Read moreBy Kungfujedi
MOST POPULAR FROM OUTDOORS
- Video: Yab Yum - Searching the Mayan Underworld (Part 3) by Kungfujedi
- A Pioneering Geologist on Uinta Plants by Hollis
- Gear Closet: Char-Broil Portable Grill2Go X200 by Kungfujedi
- Astronaut Buzz Aldrin Evacuated From the South Pole by Kungfujedi
MOST RECOMMENDED IN OUTDOORS
- Gifts that give a little more by Behan Gifford
- Cruising cold by Behan Gifford
- China Reveals Plans to Built Hotel, Restaurants at Everest Base Camp by Kungfujedi
- Video: Just Breathe - Searching the Mayan Underworld (Part 2) by Kungfujedi