We owe so much to the wonderful Elsie de Wolfe, a.k.a. Lady Mendl… creator of professional interior design (with a little help from Henry Clay Frick and Stanford White), transforming the stink of Sutton Place’s tanneries into one of Manhattan’s most fashionable addresses, beloved for her charm and witticisms (on the Parthenon: ”It’s beige—my color!”) and hostess extraordinaire in France, England and New York.
Oh yeah, she also invented Rice-A-Roni.
Yes, that Rice-A-Roni.
For proof look no further than Elsie’s Risotto Trianon from “Recipes for Successful Dining by Elsie de Wolfe (Lady Mendl)” published in 1934. Commercial Rice-A-Roni made it’s debut on the world stage in 1958. Need more be said?
RECIPE FOR ELSIE DE WOLFE’S RISOTTO TRIANON (THE ORIGINAL RICE-A-RONI)
1934
Boil rice in a well-seasoned bouillon from ten to fifteen minutes. It should, naturally, be firmly cooked through, but not overcooked so that the kernels lose their form and become “squashy.” After rice is boiled, mix in one-half as much cooked small elbow macaroni as rice. Add in generous quantities little green peas and diced green string beans stewed in butter and ham and tongue and cut into small dice, Swiss or Parmesan cheese grated, and a purée of tomatoes. These ingredients should be plentiful enough so that the dish is not merely a rice dish but something much more rich and tasty. Put all in a mold, sprinkle with grated cheese on top, and brown well in oven.
8 c. good chicken broth
3 c. arborio rice
1/2 lb. small elbow macaroni
5 T. butter
1/2 lb. fresh string beans, chopped into 1/2″ dice
1 package frozen petits pois
1/2 lb. Swiss cheese, grated
1/4 lb. Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
2 large ripe beefsteak tomatoes
1/2 lb. boiled French ham, cubed
s&p
Core tomatoes, remove seeds and dice into 1/2″ cubes. (No need to skin them).
Blanch the peas and string beans in boiling water, drain and shock in ice water. Place in large sauce pan with 2 T. butter and gently stew on low heat.
Bring the chicken broth to a simmer in a pan on the stove top. In a heavy pot melt 2 T. butter and cook the rice until it toasts and browns just a tiny bit. Ladle in the simmering broth, 1/4 c. or so at a time, stirring all the while to keep from sticking and to allow the grains of rice to create a creamy texture.
While the risotto is cooking, bring a pot of water to the boil, cook the macaroni, drain well and toss with 1 T. butter to keep it from sticking together.
When the risotto is creamy yet still the tiniest bit al dente, fold in the cooked macaroni. Fold in the peas, beans, tomatoes and ham. Stir in the Parmesan cheese and 1/2 of the Swiss cheese. Give it a good shot of salt and pepper.
Place the Risotto Trianon in a table-worthy baking dish and sprinkle the reserved Swiss cheese on top. Bake in a 400° oven for 20 minutes until the cheese is melted and starting to brown. Garnish with parsley — the curly type if you please.
[print_recipe]
