The French in general, and Parisians in particular, are a difficult bunch at best. I've lived here most of my adult life and have found that unbridled exuberance their specialty; not bad (not bad), for example, is considered a very enthusiastic form of praise. I had a hard time convincing my fellow Parisians, both French and foreign, that they would love the Olympics and Paralympics.
It was the same dynamic in 2012, when I lived in London. Before the Games began that year, similarly negative Londoners were convinced that they would be poorly run, a waste of money and, well, a bit rubbish. When we saw the opening ceremony - Danny Boyle's glorious celebration of British eccentricity - we were all for it.
Across the Channel, more than a decade later, it's particularly hard to generate hype around the event amid a barrage of challenges and criticism. Over the past four years, from the start of the pandemic in 2020 to the snap parliamentary elections called by President Macron just weeks before the opening ceremony, the run-up to the Paris Games has been fraught with obstacles and a constant drumbeat of what has been dubbed "Games-bashing."
There has been a flood of negative press about the host city, with stories of bedbugs, rats, security threats and predicted travel chaos. A decision by Paris authorities to raise prices for public transport and tourist attractions to capitalise on the expected surge in visitors has also drawn criticism.
Hotels also hiked their prices, some by as much as 300 percent. Nick Trend, consumer editor of Telegraph Travel, reported that many hotels were then forced to slash their inflated rates as bookings failed to materialize.
This is the time of year when most Parisians go out the big holidays but some reported that the city was even emptier of locals than usual, as Parisians fled to avoid the event. "It's going to be a catastrophe," a rather dramatic taxi driver told me a few weeks ago.
In the week leading up to the opening ceremony, which Paris brazenly decided to hold outside on the Seine, the entire central part of the city around the river was cordoned off to all residents and visitors. Only those with prior permission and a QR code were allowed to pass through the police blockade. The operation caused confusion and consternation.
All these factors created tensions in the run-up to the ceremony, especially as an unexpected visitor arrived that the police could not keep out: the pouring rain.
I arrived at Clubhouse 24 around 5:30 p.m., the pop-up venue that the official Olympic and Paralympic hospitality partner, the glitzy American company On Location, had set up in the Palais de Tokyo, just across the river from the Eiffel Tower. In addition to a welcome glass of champagne and fancy canapés, their team also presented guests with a Paris 2024 poncho and a wide-brimmed hat, which certainly helped during the four-hour, almost continuous downpour.
But in the end I don't think it mattered. In fact, I almost think the rain wands added a suitable drama. From star dancer Guillaume Diop's ballet on the roof of the City Hall to Celine Dion's towering performance on the Eiffel Tower, I loved it. So I was surprised to hear that many people in the UK didn't. It was certainly unpredictable and sometimes overwhelming, but having lived here for years I suppose that's in keeping with the French sensibility.
Perhaps most impressively, it managed to win over the locals, just as our opening ceremony with Brits did in 2012.
Parisians gathered in bars all over the city to watch the spectacle. "It was like a World Cup atmosphere," said Sue, a French-American watching from a bar in trendy Pigalle.
The sun was shining on Sunday morning and as events got underway, the nerves of Friday seemed far away.
"Even if it rained, I don't think people would remember that," said Eric, a resident of the Paris suburbs who traveled to the city on Sunday with two friends. The group had come to see the hot-air balloon that houses the flame in the Tuileries Gardens. "You have to be very good difficult "I didn't like the ceremony," added Thierry, another from their group. "It was beautiful."
The French press has also changed its tone. Journalists now note that the event has already proven successful on many levels: almost 10 million tickets were sold, a record number; more than five million spectators attended the torch relay across the country; and hundreds of thousands of people applied for the 45,000 volunteer positions.
The event cost France around $10 billion (£7.7 billion), only around 25 percent more than its original budget (compared to London 2012, which cost around three times its original budget). This can be partly attributed to France's commitment to ensuring that 95 percent of its venues are existing or pop-up infrastructure, which also aligns with Paris's aim to host the most sustainable Olympic Games ever.
Private sponsorship is also a big part of it. Of the total cost, only about a quarter is tax money. The observant viewers will have noticed the dominance of Louis Vuitton during the opening ceremony.
The limitations of sponsorship are clear, however. For example, cafés and shops in the venue only accept Visa, which sponsors the event. In fact, payment, food offerings and service in the venues seem to be one of the biggest gripes for visitors, and leave much to be desired, as Telegraph Travel journalist Anna Richards reported last week. The general consensus seems to be to eat before the event.
Alcoholic drinks are also not permitted in venues, in line with existing national rules around sporting events. Those who buy hospitality tickets through the official provider, which range from around £70 to several thousand, are exempt from this rule; champagne is flowing freely in venues across the city.
Apart from the snack issues, everyone I've spoken to so far has indicated that the atmosphere has been very good and that the organisation of obtaining tickets and access to venues has gone smoothly, even at the temporary venues, such as the beach volleyball court at the Eiffel Tower.
Chelsea, Lisa and Jason from the US also visited the flaming hot air balloon in the Tuileries on Sunday. They have been planning their trip for over a year and have tickets for eight events.
The police cordon around the river was lifted over the weekend, which has improved circulation considerably. "It's easy to get around the city," Chelsea said. "So far it's been great," Jason added. "We've been able to figure out where to go - we've even commented on how friendly the police are!"
Paris is the most visited city in the world and the tourist board hopes that the showcase provided by the Olympics will only add to its popularity. For now, the city whose symbol is a boat on the Seine seems to be living up to its motto: Fluctuation nec merger - "she is tossed by the waves, but never sinks".
Hannah Meltzer joined the official hospitality provider for the Olympic and Paralympic Games for the Opening Ceremony. This is the first time the Paralympic Games have had hospitality packages, starting from £85.
