With One Step in the Future: Innovator Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman

Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman is an expert in wearable technology design, functional clothes and goods made from smart textiles. After many years of experience as an industrial and fashion designer, as well as a professor and researcher at Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, New York, she created the Interwoven Design Group. Her vast experience and knowledge have landed her key positions like Design Director for Nike, Fila or Champion. Moreover, she has founded the Intelligent Materials Applied Research and Innovation (IMARI) Lab at Pratt and she was offered grant funding from Intel, The NYC Media Lab COMBINE, Verizon Connected Futures and NASA. In 2016, she published her book "Smart Textiles for Designers: Inventing the Future of Fabrics", in which she wrote about the revolution we are starting to see unfold as the human body and everyday objects become connected - with smart fabrics playing a great part in the process. We wanted to find out more about her work and vision and thus invited her to talk to us about wearable tech uses and how these can shape the world. Wearable products

The Interwoven Design Group, which Rebeccah leads, is primarily focused on wearable technology and smart textiles, but also specializes on functional apparel. Usually, companies hire them to design or create a product that is worn on the body. "The reason why we describe our work as a 'product worn on the body' and not as 'fashion' is because the things that we design have another primary function - for example, sometimes they help you move or make you able to do things you couldn't otherwise do."

When she talks to people, Rebeccah places a lot of accent on explaining that this is an emerging area, which will allow for major changes as technologies advance and become more integrated in the everyday. Currently, they are working on a few projects revolving around wearable robotics, but for the long term, Rebeccah sees a lot of possibilities: from complex performative costumes that can be used with artistic purposes to hands-on medical products that improve the life quality of people in need.

Rebeccah is one of the people of today who sees the fact that the world of tomorrow will be all about connection. As technologies become more and more subtle and advanced, it is most probable that everything will be connected. More and more people are now talking about the possibilities brought on by the Internet of Things (IoT), on which Rebeccah actually teaches a class at Pratt.

Sensible connection

Despite all the connectivity that is now emerging, Rebeccah is one of the few people who understands very well the human side of using technology and says that, while she does love wearable technology, not everything has to be connected and that technology can work well with humans only when there is a seamless integration between the two. "If I have to use more things that make me log in with a password... I'm going to freeze. I work in technology, but I can't keep up with handling too many passwords. Sometimes, you have to allow extra time in your day to solve password-issues" she explains. "Things need to work well with each other; otherwise it can turn into a nightmare". According to Rebeccah, one solution to this issue is for the companies who work on these projects to use the same protocols, so that everything can be seamlessly intertwined.

Superhumans or ordinary tech

Taking a global look at the spread of technology, one can't help but notice that different people have access or can afford only certain types of technological products. In this sense, as tech becomes more and more advanced, it seems that in the near future, some parts of the world, or even some groups within smaller areas such as cities, will remain behind, while others will turn into superhumans. In regards to this problem, Rebeccah says that this is something about which she thinks a lot. However, the solutions seems rather simple; namely that advanced technology as connected to clothing or the human body should be used only when there is a real need for it. For example, clothes that adapt to changing temperatures can be of great help for those living in climates where temperatures change drastically from one moment to another. "I think we are going to see a lot of growth in wearable technology in health and athletics" Rebeccah explains. "We have a great lack of mobility and that many products can offer people the mobility they don't have."

Given that wearable technology is also quite expensive; the advent of these new products also has the potential to create a social divide. In regards to this issue, Rebeccah says that it's definitely something that is already here: "It's been happening for years in athletics - somebody invents something and you can run faster, a new shoe comes along and you can jump higher - and not everybody has access to the newest innovation."

Back to our roots or dystopia?

Technological advancements usually result in changes of aesthetics. Currently, we are seeing two parallel directions in fashion and clothing, one direction being the ultra-natural and the other being the very futuristic. Vis-à-vis this issue, Rebeccah says: "I love the idea that it's human nature to always have a backlash against something that is really dystopian." Thus, she thinks that we will be able to incorporate technology in things that are bespoke in order to preserve the idea of having things that are personal and original. "This way, it wouldn't be intimidating to people." Sometimes, however, according to Rebeccah, it can be beneficial to play up wearable technology. For example, if someone is wearing a robotic arm for medical reasons, they might be happier for it to look like something from a Marvel movie than a stiff wax figure arm. "This is also an opportunity to rethink what an arm is or what it can be. The running blade is an example I like: it's not a leg and it doesn't look like one."

Directions and uses

In the end, what is very important for Rebeccah is that people understand that there are two main directions wearable technology can have. One, the performative one, where the technology is visible - this is generally used for artistic purposes, such as a series of tutus she created for the Brooklyn ballet, which would light up as the dancers would move; and the second aspect being the informative one, which describes a garment that has first and foremost a practical use. The idea of the jacket that adapts to different weather conditions would be a good example of that.

At the moment, Rebeccah is working on an exciting new project she can't share much about, but let's just say it involves clothes that act like your muscles and thus allow you to lift more - if this doesn't say "the future is here", what does?

Fraquoh and Franchomme

P.S. We want to hear from you! What do you think will be the next big thing in wearable tech? How do you think the aesthetics of these clothes will change? Why? Share your feedback, questions or thoughts in the comments below! For more articles on style, fashion tips and cultural insights, you can subscribe to Attire Club via e-mail or follow us on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram!