Weld Ridge Winter Traverse
By Hikingoz
I decided to do this trip because of its central location in the South West. It is a good viewing point for much of the area. The original plan was an easier walk up the marked track from South Weld Rd over three days, spending one day at the summit area. When my hiking companions pulled out I was able to plan a more difficult trip. I chose to traverse the range from South to North starting at Lulworth Spur and finishing at the peak of Mt Weld before descending to South Weld Rd via the typical route. The idea of traversing a ridgeline always appeals to me as it is the natural means of navigation without established trails. In this case it proved to be harder then I’m accustomed to.
The weather was ideal when I started the trip. I parked the car at Tahune Airwalk on a Sunday 8th July around 9.30am and then walked along Manuka Rd through tall forests to a creek 4k along. This signified my point to turn off. It was a bit of a daunting start clambering into the scrub. There was a fair bit of cutting grass to begin with but in hindsight it was fairly open at the beginning. There were sections of beautiful wet and dry forest mixed in with more cutting grass and tangled roots as I ascended onto Lulworth Spur. I made camp at 4pm (715303), tired, sore and with not enough water. I made it less than two km into the scrub. I went to sleep concerned about the progress still 10k from Mt Weld and without a resupply of water for the day.
I started Monday by eating a couple of muesli bars and breaking camp by 9am. Without water it wasn’t the best breakfast. I knew I’d find water soon enough but the scrub was slow going. After a couple of hours of scrub I came across a small muddy below a log around 712317 approximately. I dug it out a bit and waited for it to settle before scooping it out and boiling it. I took a rest and ate a cooked lunch. Enjoyed the quiet surrounds of the forest in its various shades of green and didn’t leave until 1pm. I arrived at the broad saddle around 704315 at 4pm after some seriously thick Pandani groves, the worst scrub I’d encountered. I learnt that the light colored areas on the 1:25,000 map marked low dense vegetation was worse than the areas marked medium forest. I camped by a beautiful stream at 700316. My original intention was to camp at the high plateau at 701323 but I didn’t make it. After observing this location from above the following day I can say that camping in the tall timber in that area is likely a good spot and that the approach along the eastern side of the saddle and ridgeline between the two level areas would have avoided some of the thicker scrub. I got a weather forecast by txt expecting snow on Thursday.
I started out at 9.15 and encountered horrendous pandani scrub as previously mentioned. It really was pretty crap. Finally at 11am I came through into open forest where I could walk unhindered. I made good time and was up onto the actual Weld Ridge by 12pm. I broke through into low scoparia and my eyes hurt from the brilliant sun after days of scrub. I yelled out with joy as I soaked in the views. Blue skies and views to Mt Picton, the entire Arthurs Range and snow covered Mt Anne. Absolutely amazing. I continued on and the scrub continued to be difficult. The ridge line had large rock formations, at this point covered in scrub creating extreme changes in depth and height of plants and terrain. It became an exercise in gymnastics and subtle negotiation with trees. Eventually I came across a small trig point. The first sign of life since leaving the logged area by the road, and it seemed to me, a useless installation amongst the scrub on a low lying pinnacle.
I made only 1.6k in the day and set up camp at 3pm at 694331. I was nervous about the rocky ridge and scrub and the ease of campsite selection in the later hours. I walked down to the unnamed lake below my camp for water and to fill the hour or so until dark. I found several good sheltered level camp sites 200m above the lake. I would have camped here instead if I hadn’t already erected my tent. Wednesday started with more scrub. As I got onto more prominent features I had to deal with large exposed boulder fields. These weren’t any easier and made for slow going. I’d often be scrambling over deep gabs between rocks and difficult maneuvers with the heavy pack. The weather was cloudy and rainy. There was a bit of wind during the day and it got cold. Another 2k day and I found myself searching nervously for a camp around 3pm. Over the day I had observed several large dry cracks and caves amongst the giant boulders so I searched amongst rocks of a prominent peak rather than risk squandering the rest of the daylight pushing through the next section of scrub. I camped in a cave (683346) and avoided the cold wind. It was 4.7c in the cave but dry and I was comfortable eating dinner whilst wrapped up in my sleeping bag. I collected water dripping down through the cracks.
I started out at 8.45 the following morning without having to pack up my tent. It really was just too dark and crappy to head out any earlier. After wondering straight of off the rocks I wondered into a beautiful alpine forest hidden on the saddle. It was funny to me that I was so unconvinced the night before, whilst so close to a perfect sheltered camp. The scrub seems level from above but the ground on the saddle drops away creating a a forest oasis right on the ridgeline with space for several tents sheltered from the wind. I moved on into low scoparia and more boulders. Sun came out for a bit followed by more rain. Things seemed to get easier the closer I got to Mt Weld. I pulled up at 3pm adjacent to Lobster Lake at a level area on the ridge. I gained water from snow on the ground. I didn’t see any from the expected forecast.
I woke up in the morning to rain on my tent and so slept in to 8.30. I had brekkie and coffee and broke camp by 10am. After a slow start I passed more possible campsites within an hour of my own. There was constant light drizzle and low visibility as I scrambled over rocks. The terrain got consistently easier the closer I got to Mt Weld and I passed a large cairn at 1.30om above Trout Lake. I made the summit around 2.15 and just as I rested at the top clouds began to clear one minor peak at a time along the range and I was given the chance for a photo or two. I camped on the moor 700m from the summit and the evening was clear and the views spectacular.
I woke on Saturday expecting to be on South Weld Road by mid afternoon. It was a nice morning as I headed along the moor at 8.45. I had trouble finding any constant track once I left the open area. I had had researched the route but couldn’t find it. After following cairns down to where they might actually be needed, they end and the scrub begins. I bashed down towards a clearing and a tarn south of the ridge. Once I reached the clearing I followed a tiny footpad east past a single pink tape marker and then on until it went to nothing. I took a bearing and followed the open ground downhill into gradually increasing scrub. I gave up on finding the track and committed to another day of scrub bashing in wet conditions. After passing through wet gullies and broad open ridges of cutting grass and gums I descended and camped only 700m from the road. I had anticipated slogging along the fire trail this evening but not finding the trail put an end to that. In hindsight I searched to far south once I had lost the cairns. The actual route likely runs north of my course. I’ll walk it from the bottom another day.
On Sunday I woke earlier than normal and left camp at 8am. After some very thick scrub I started to notice the signs of logging and gradually passed into sections of very young eucalyptus scrub and cutting grass. It took me about an hour to reach the road. I walked for a further hour or so along the road before I met someone on the road. Dave from Judburry was taking the dogs for a walk and gave me a lift in his car back to Tahune Airwalk once he’d finished. I had lunch at the Airwalk at 12pm. Wiping a leach off my hand at the table with a serviette was a bit of a laugh. The gray nomads and other tourists weren’t quite sure what to make of me.
In summary it was a more difficult trip than I expected. There was either thick scrub or very rough boulder terrain for the majority of the traverse. I was rewarded with fantastic views of the surrounding South West and also a true experience of Tasmanian Wilderness. Drawing a line across a map in Tasmania is a dangerous business. The flora on this trip was amazing and I was fortunate enough to have the weather on my side. It bucketed down Sunday afternoon as I drove away but I only experienced light rain and winds on my journey. There wasn’t the snow I had anticipated. Despite the challenging terrain I didn’t have the difficulties of exposure I have experienced in summer in the South West in other areas. I was well supplied and comfortable on my journey. I would not recommend this trip to the majority of bushwalkers. It is a balance of effort and reward.