In Dubai, it would be nigh impossible to live without them. Even historically, this region has been a centre of trade - silk, spices, gold, food, it all comes and goes. When I do my weekly shopping, I return home with beef from Australia, prawns from Oman, apples from China, oranges from Spain, potatoes from Saudi Arabia, cheese from France. I've spoken about this before: in Dubai, we are all consumers - the rest of the world creates, and we buy it in and eat it up. But how far should it go?
Last week, I attended the launch for a new dining concept, (Dinedubai) and they had me and a bunch of much more important people meet them over lunch at Caffe Florian in the DIFC. When I received the invitation, I knew the name, but couldn't remember where I had heard it, so I Googled. Lo and behold, it's an import. The oldest still-running cafe on Piazza San Marco in Venice has decided to update it's image by opening in block 6 of the DIFC Gate district. Natural progression, no? I mean, Venice, Dubai, they're just stepping stones apart really?
hmmm...
The DIFC is beautiful, but it's too clean, linear, sterile, straight and grey. The cafe is well lit, modern, sure, Italian, but in the way an Armani Suit is Italian. In the words of the great Dr Spock, "It's life Jim, but not as we know it." Not quite Venice transplanted. More like Venice translated - into the kind of English you see on a pirate video cover.
Sure, it's pleasant in its own way. I wont talk much about the food, because I was there 1. for free, and 2. at a function of 30-odd people, and I believe it's a little harsh to judge a place in those contexts. However, they did do a remarkably good job impressing me with a parmesan taglietelle and shaved truffle dish.
My problem started with the very brief conversation I had with the Maitre'd. As you can imagine, I often bring my camera out at restaurants, and for the first time ever, I was told I could not take photographs. The response to my obvious retort of "Why?" was something along the lines of
"because we are forbidden to sell pork or alcohol, we have decided to forbid photographs"
"Huh?"
"We do not want the publicity"
"Huh?"
"Caffe Florian is a very prestegious brand. Very Italian. We would be ashamed."
"Errr...."
And this brings me back to imports.
What is the region's fascination with brands, and when will it end? I can understand some items - cars, shoes, electronics. Consumables where the brand will provide a guarantee of quality and style, durability and performance. I can also understand hotel chains - again, a guarantee of the standard due to their international profile, and for that matter I will not begrudge brand names such as McDonalds and Starbucks. Again, international brands that take the risk out of consumption for wary travellers.
No. It's just an Italian restaurant. With techniques that can be copied, staff that can be poached and decor that can be purchased elsewhere. I have reviewed three other big brand names recently - Emporio Armani Caffe, Shake Shack and Fauchon. Sure, the venues on their own are good. But would they be just as good if they were called "Cafe Italiano", "American Burger House" and "Patisserie Francais"? I'm sure they would.
And it would give me one less thing to complain about.
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Caffe Florian is located in the DIFC, block 6, the Gate Village, close to Zuma. ph 04-3231833
And by the way, for the Maitre'd; there are plenty of restaurants in Dubai that sell both pork and alcohol - it is the owners choice to settle in a space that is unlicensed to do so.
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