The Zulu in South Africa are a fascinating people.
As South Africa’s largest ethnic group they suffered heavily under apartheid and state sanctioned discrimination. They were considered to be third class citizens until the end of apartheid in 1994. So how does a group recover from such discrimination? How do they adapt? I was about to find out.
First though I want to start off by saying that the Zulu language is the coolest language I’ve ever heard with its clicking noises. It sounds deceptively simple. But despite my best attempts I sounded more like a distressed chicken clucking.
My Zulu Heritage Trail tour with Urban Adventures began at the Kwa Muhle Museum in Durban:
Next up was a visit to a Zulu Village. As I stepped into the dark thatched hut made of clay and dung, I felt like I was stepping backwards several hundred years in time:
Inside the hut we learned more about Zulu life. The fact that really stuck with me is that traditionally and presently, a man can have as many wives as he can afford, but each wife costs 11 cows. I had learned from a previous visit to another Zulu village that this often results in couples remaining in different villages, unmarried, due to the high cost. Each wife must also have her own hut which is another expense, but perhaps rather necessary to keep the peace.
There’s also an easy way to tell the difference between the men and women’s huts. Any guesses?
The men’s huts are on the left, the women’s on the right. This was in case of invasion since most men are right-handed and they could use their spear to protect their wives.
I also loved learning about the clothing. For example, the woman pictured below is clearly married since she is wearing a beaded hat. It’s the equivalent to a wedding ring. Traditionally these were (painfully I would imagine) sewn into their heads
Ohlange is a simple building. There’s not much to see, but my visit was powerful. So much history had been made here. So much hope in spite of all of the challenges. But it was reading Ohlange’s objectives that really moved me.