Shapowei, Xiamen: After Hours!

By Josephharrison1990 @JTAH_1990

After my 'Tulou' day trip I wanted out of that questionable hotel room situation, taking a walk down memory lane had me seeing some familiar 'Shapowei' sights. That Xiamen night wasn't going to be like the last one back in 2018, I wanted to keep my senses intact and I had a tour the next day! I wanted to strike an 'After Hours' balance with some responsible drinking! Honestly! 

Let's just say I wanted to adult the right way during that evening into night moment, heading down from my hotel to Shapowei was like no other taxi ride! I had never seen so many people trying to get to one place, holding a certain element of 'letting loose' those crowds were no joke! Being the first public holiday for three years without restrictions it was like the whole country had descended upon that part of Xiamen! My 2018 night-out in Xiamen saw me in a right state, I wasn't about to repeat that because I had officially entered my 'responsible era!' Xiamen knew that I had grown! That same Shapowei arts building looked slightly different as I waded my way through the crowds of people, the flea market situation forced me to keep my cool because those crowds were something else! I just wanted to find the water, I wanted to have the night out that 2018 deserved with a 2023 state of mind. With a clear head I made my way to that trendy lit waterside walkway. Xiamen served crowds but they didn't bother me! Xi, I was getting hungry! 

The towers above me stood part of Xiamen's own Conrad residence, those rooms were way out of my budget but those multi-coloured structures shone bright in the darkened sky. Serving a tropical kind of vibe, those ever-changing technicolour towers shone in a number of different colours! The boardwalk at Shapowei felt different, something told me that things had been spruced up since my last visit? I was sure that had been the case, I wasn't mad though! People were living their best lives, enjoying their evening like it was 2019 all over again! I felt truly at home during that moment, the warm air felt great as the time edged closer to 8 P.M. I had not yet had anything alcoholic to drink at that point, I wanted to keep it that way! I was sure tempted by several bars that I passed by, something told me that eating a hearty meal beforehand would do me good. Those thoughts were valid and sensible because back in Ningbo I had made some stupid nighttime mistakes. Xiamen saw me enter my 'sensible era!' Was I sure? 

Hungry like the wolf, I chose a busy looking fish restaurant at the far end of the boardwalk. I didn't want to eat fish exactly but with being on the coast I thought it was right that I chose the prawn fried rice. Yes, that was when I had my first beer of the night and the only because I didn't want to gas myself up! Obviously eating is cheating but I wanted to line my stomach because these days I just can't drink like I used to in my 20's! I ordered a side dish, apparently they were some type of spring roll? I asked my friend because I thought they were also fish, they weren't! Anyhow, the food was nice and it was even better to people watch in that restaurant. That warm evening air stuck around, adding to my 'After Hours' experience. Leaving the restaurant with a full stomach was very much a mood. I had not done that during that 2018 night out, if truth be told I don't remember eating anything substantial other than lunch. I definitely felt in the 2023 moment that Xiamen deserved to see a better behaved me. I didn't recognize myself! Not at all! 

As I walked back towards those Conrad towers, that 'night out' had me thinking about the next day! I had a day planned to visit Xiamen's Gulangyu Island, I did plan to get a bit boozy but with such a special itinerary planned I knew that a few drinks would suffice. A few drinks? Make them strong ones then! Xiamen's Da Xue Road was no joke, I simply didn't want to revisit that main thoroughfare whilst the masses were out to play. I wasn't in the mood for a club nor a bar with thumping music, I really wanted to turn that usual 'After Hours' vibe more into 'An Evening With'. Steering clear from that hectic street scene, I chose to walk further down the boardwalk with another venue in mind. The streets were making up for my lack of madness, I was pacing myself and didn't feel ashamed about that. Sure, my next night-out would be very different but once that blog hasn't yet been drafted. Those hotel and boardwalk views were in check, my evening meal had definitely sorted me out but I needed another drink! Xiamen clocked it all!  

A livehouse? Sure, that's what I said! That evening out was about to turn into a night-out because I ordered my first 'Long Island Ice Tea' of the night! That livehouse situation allowed me to be the only foreigner in the house, no other foreigners other than myself could be found. I wasn't mad because unless you're one of my friends, I much prefer meeting Chinese people. Without that foreigner presence I had to get used to that all Chinese drinks menu because not a stitch of English was present. Embracing that livehouse in Xiamen saw me talking to people that I didn't know, observing the patrons and listening to the live music. Of course, I appreciated that the young people who were at the livehouse weren't off their faces, neither were they completely glued to their phones. People seemed to be genuinely enjoying themselves with a drink in hand, I sat at the bar with a new conversation in motion. Xiamen saw me sipping drinks but not like I usually do! That livehouse experience gave me something different, Shapowei served up variety! 

Regardless, that first cocktail turned into three but as I got that glow you get once those key first few drinks have been enjoyed, I remembered that I had another full packed day planned! Leaving that first drinking venue of the night, I headed through an alley that led be back to Da Xue Road. I chose to have a shot of sake rice wine at a Japanese restaurant, Shapowei served up more yet again! I loved that cute Japanese style venue, it made me think that a trip to Japan must happen soon! Heading along a more subdued Da Xue Road, I dipping into a craft beer bar with the hope of another drink before I called that home-time taxi! That final cocktail was pure alcohol, I really had to sip that drink with caution! Talking to a charming young woman was lovely, she told me about her plans to study in London. I wished her well but she knew also that her living costs wouldn't be like they currently were in China! Calling a taxi didn't take as much work as it had in 2018, heading back before 2 A.M was a whole mood! After Hours, respectfully. 

Fuzhou's Next! 

Desperately Seeking