Reviews of Reviews: The Week of March 26th, 2012

By Johntalbott
Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Au Vide Gousset, coordinates given before, where he commented on the Ospital charcuteries, pate, Caesar salad,chicken and cheesecake and Philippe Toinard wrote up and gave 3/5 dots to the new chef at the Carte Blanche, coordinates well-known where he commented on the leek tarts, lieu jaune and chocolate spiced with orange.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous reviewed the latest Fish-offshoot Semilla, 54 rue de Seine in the 6th, 01.43.54.34.50, open 7/7 costing about 16-35 € serving a 1/2/5-choice lunch of things like cream of onion, green asparaugus, salmon and agrume dessert and at dinner they have much more.
On Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual five places, giving two hearts to the new Japanese chef from Stella Maris at the Bistro Volnay, coordinates well-known where he commented on the duck and foie gras tart and Grand Marnier soufflé. One heart each went to: La Compagne, 23, ave Wagram in the 17th, 01.42.27.16.38, open 7/7, costing about 40-50 E for artichokes vinaigrette, ray with capers and lemon tart; Le Restaurant du Boulanger Eric Kayser, 41 cour St-Emilion in the 12th, open 7/7 serving a lunch menu for 14.90 and 30-35 E a la carte for sautéed shrimp, chicken club and coffee éclair; and La Dinette des Fils a Maman Mouffetard, 58, rue Claude-Bernard in the 5th, 01.47.07.12.81 closed weekends, serving rich students from the Normale Sup and Arts deco salads and such for 20-25 E. He awarded a busted heart to the Café Petit, 52, rue rene Boulanger in the 10th, open 7/7, 01.42.03.30.16 with a lunch menu at 15, a la carte 25 E for oeuf mayo, chicken sate and no dessert thank you.
And in the Figaroscope Dossier this week, Colette Monsat, Hugo de Saint Phalle and Francois Simon gave the favorite “cantines” of the Presidential candidates:
Sarkozy Honore
Hollande La Cigale Recamier
Bayrou Le Petit Thiou
Melenchon La Bulle
Joly Le Select and (for Francois Simon’s Hache Menu)
Le Pen Chez Tonton
This week in l’Express Anne-Laure Pham reviewed Louloucam, 264 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Martin in the 10th, 01.40.34.76.87, with an ex-Tour d’Argent, ex-Meurice chef, running one 16-20 E at lunch and 31 E at dinner for leeks with lemongrass, scallops and poached pear or chocolate; and Francois-Regis Gaudry wrote up the previously mentioned Terroir Parisien in the 5th as well as a video of his meal at L’Office in the 9th.
Saturday, in Figaro, Francois Simon reviewed L’Ecuyer Normand in Chandal (61300).
And Sunday in the JDD Francois Lemarie reviewed Kei in the 1st, coordinates well known.