Reviews of Reviews: The Week of February 17th, 2014

By Johntalbott

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 2/5 dots to the henceforth fish-serving Café des Ministeres in the 7th where his meal sounds awful (a la carte 45-60 E), closed Sundays; and Jerome Berger gave 3/5 to the American food (hamburgers, San Francisco beer and cookies) centered Lockwood in the 2nd (closed Sundays, running one 15 E).

Tuesday in Le Fooding Yves Nespoulous reviewed Blue Valentine, 13, rue de la Pierre Levee in the 11th, 01.43.38.34.72, closed Mondays and Tuesdays, chef’d by a Japanese guy from the Mandarin Oriental, who for a 19 E lunch formula, 29-36 E menus and 54 E at night, serves sourced items such as marinated octopus, a poitrine de porc and a Mont-blanc.

Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed and gave 2/4 hearts to two places: Les Nicois, 7, rue Lacharriere in the 11th, 09.84.16.55.03, closed Sunday dinner & Mondays, which runs one 25-30 or at the 25 E brunch serves coffee, fresh fruit and tartines and L’Envie du Jour in the ex-Bigarrade space at 106, rue Nollet in the 17th, 0142.26.01.02, closed Sundays, serving items such as veal piccata, beef with carrot puree and a macaroon with chocolate for menus at lunch 16 E and dinner 24 and 36 E.  Three places merited one heart: the Japanese Street food Peco Peco in the 9th; Clint in the 11th and the Lebanese Chez Nagi in the 7th.

The Dossier this week by Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio and Hugo de Saint Phalle was on “concept-stores:”

The Broken Arm

Merci

Clint

Colette

duo

Le Bal

Mel, Mich & MartinLe

Sept Cinq

Professore

Le Beef Club et le Ballroom

Le 68 Guy Martin

Nanashi chez Bonpoint

More

Marcovaldo

Le Fantome

Gossima Ping Pong Bar

In another article on spring happenings, Colette Monsat mentioned the “best addresses of the moment:”

Coretta

David Toutain

Dessance

Haikai

Caillebotte

And Francois Simon went to the Japanese “bobo” Café Kitsume where he had an espresso and chocolate cookie for 6 E.

Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update continued her review of places to get quality fast food: the previously mentioned Grillé, Jules et Shim, and Holybelly.

Thursday, in l’Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry extolled the merits of L’Assiette in Reims and Charles Patin O’Coohoon liked the pretty bistro run by an ex-Ribouldingue chef – l’Atelier Ramey, 23, rue Ramey in the 18th, 01.42.51.04.78, closed Sundays, which has a formula for 19, a menu for 35 and a la carte runs on 25-35 E for items such as a lentil soup, veal poitrine and chocolate quenelle. 

Saturday, Colette Monsat, in le Figaro, revealed that most wasabi in France is faux – a mélange of horseradish and mustard and that only 10% of Japanese places have people of that origin actually are involved in Japanese restos. 

Sunday in the JDD, Francois Lemaire wrote up the previously mentioned Tsubame and Aurelie Chaigneau gave the previously mentioned: Degustation a 8/10, Coretta a 7.5 and Isse a 7/10.