Regenerative Viticulture at The Vineyards at Dodon

"With nature as our guide and learning from those who went before us, we seek to reduce our chemical and physical footprint while returning life and biology to the landscape. It starts by enhancing the biodiversity within and around the vineyard. Spontaneously growing, native and naturalized cover crops, compost, and livestock regenerate soil, add microbial diversity, and restore underground ecosystems." -- The Vineyards at Dodon

During the upcoming 2026 Eastern Winery Exposition, Tom Croghan, executive winemaker and co-owner of The Vineyards at Dodon, will provide two seminars on Regenerative Viticulture. In general, regenerative farming is a conservation‑driven approach to agriculture that focuses on rebuilding soil, restoring biodiversity, and strengthening the natural systems that make food production resilient. It emphasizes practices such as improving topsoil structure, enhancing the water cycle, and increasing on‑farm ecological diversity, all with the goal of creating healthier, more self‑sustaining landscapes. It prioritizes profitability through reduced input costs—such as fertilizer and pesticides—while improving long-term resilience and productivity.

The Dodon Farm

The Dodon farm has a long history from Colonial times to the present which is much too long and complex for this feature but is hinted at through the winery's wine labels. The farm "consists of 555 acres in its current configuration, comprising roughly 400 acres of woodland, 65 acres of pasture, 65 acres of cropland, 17 acres of planted vineyards, and 15 acres of 'farmstead' – houses, barns, sheds, roads, and other non-tillable areas. Since 2010, the vineyard and winery have occupied a section of about 43 acres in the northeastern corner of the property. This estate has more than 31,000 vines densely planted over 17 acres in three adjacent vineyards."

According to the winery's website, "It is a difficult site for agriculture, but it is perfect for a vineyard when coupled with scrupulously tended vines, a nurturing climate, and passionate people. The soils are infinitely complex, a mosaic of nearly a billion years of orogeny and erosion to the west, the rise and fall of oceans during the Miocene, and hundreds of years of human cultivation. Recognizing their distinctive characteristics, they have been designated 'Dodon-series' by the United States Department of Agriculture. They are naturally drained by slope and sandy texture, yet they also include a modest distribution of clay that provides a regular supply of water. At more than 3,000 feet to bedrock, their depth and decomposing shells provide texture and fragrance to the wine....

The climate at Dodon complements the soils and the varieties. The rainfall accelerates weathering of the soils, releasing minerals and creating the environment in which the vines grow. Moderate temperatures during the last weeks of September slow ripening, allowing full expression of aroma and balanced tannins that preserve flavor and extend aging in the bottle. "

Regeneration as a Working Framework

Dodon’s team treats the vineyard as a living system rather than a production surface. Their environmental policy emphasizes soil structure, microbial life, and long-term ecological resilience. This includes minimizing external inputs, eliminating pollution, and strengthening the social and ecological environment around the farm. Each full‑time team member takes responsibility for a specific environmental focus area, reinforcing that regeneration is not a side project but the organizing principle of the farm’s daily work. 

Several practices stand out:

• Soil‑first viticulture — Farming decisions prioritize soil organic matter, water retention, and microbial diversity. This aligns with the estate’s goal of restoring functioning ecosystems and sequestering carbon. 
  
• Biodiversity enhancement — Habitat restoration and diversified plantings support beneficial insects, birds, and soil organisms, reducing reliance on chemical interventions. 
  
• Low‑impact management — The vineyard seeks to reduce its chemical and physical footprint, using ecological processes to manage vine vigor, pests, and disease pressure. 

These practices are not framed as innovations but as a return to ecological common sense—an approach that sees the vineyard as part of a broader landscape.

Again, according to their website, "acres of pollinator meadows and hedgerows that include traditional indigenous food sources like hazelnuts, dwarf chestnuts, and Chickasaw plums provide beneficial insects with the food, shelter, and breeding areas they need to thrive. These 'natural areas' cover more than half of the 43 acres we manage. ..The biodiversity also creates the conditions to store water for drought and allow it to infiltrate during intense downpours. The combination of grasses and woody plants stabilizes the soil, preventing erosion and nutrient pollution. Disease-suppressive soils protect the vines from microbial pests. Improved nutrition creates healthier plants and more expressive wines. As a result, we’ve reduced insecticide use by 70% and fungicide use by a third."

The Dodon Center for Ecological Farming

Croghan’s background as a physician‑scientist informs his methodical, evidence‑driven approach to farming. He leads the estate’s environmental efforts and has become a central voice in Maryland’s ecological viticulture community.  His work emphasizes the idea that vineyards can function as carbon sinks, biodiversity corridors, and educational spaces while still producing high‑quality wine.

Along with co‑owner Polly Pittman, Croghan also helped establish the Dodon Center for Ecological Farming, a nonprofit dedicated to training, collaboration, and research in regenerative agriculture. Workshops hosted at the vineyard bring together practitioners and educators to explore holistic decision‑making, soil health, and ecological vineyard design. 

The Vineyard as an Ecological Classroom

Visitors to Dodon encounter a working farm where regenerative practices are visible rather than abstract. We participated in a guided tour and tasting last weekend which included discussions of cover crops, soil structure, and the long-term ecological goals of the estate.  General Manager Regina McCarthy started by describing the farms history, soil enhancements and composition, and Croghan’s quest to turn the farm into a comprehensive ecosystem.  

The tour also stressed Dodon's use of farm animals for fertilization and as an alternative to mowing. The fertilizations starts with an estate compost which is augmented by soil decomposing under fallen woodland trees. This increases the range of the domestic microbes within the soil.  The sheep and pigs are also fed crab meal which contains nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, and chitin -- a natural compound that stimulates beneficial soil microbes, suppresses nematodes and fungal pathogens, and improves soil structure, drainage, and water retention.  

Another eye-opening aspect of the tour was learning how the farm attempts to naturally handle pests and diseases. They created a meadow near the vines to attract beneficial insects.   Ladybugs and lacewings are among the most effective beneficial insects in vineyards, feeding on aphids, mealybugs, and other soft-bodied pests.  Predatory mites, such as phytoseiidae, target red and yellow spider mites that damage grape leaves and reduce photosynthesis, helping maintain vine health without chemical intervention.  Parasitic wasps, like Anagrus species, lay eggs in pest insect eggs—such as those of grape leafhoppers—preventing them from hatching and reducing pest populations naturally.  And praying mantises, earwigs, and syrphid flies (hoverflies) also play key roles as generalist predators, consuming a wide range of pests and contributing to balanced vineyard ecosystems. Regina told a story how during the summer they watch praying mantises lunching on spotted lantern flies like burritos. 

While walking in the vineyard, Regina alerted us to pruning cuttings that were left lying between the vine rows. In most instances, these are immediately removed from the vineyard and burned because many contain fungal spores from pathogens that infect grapevines through pruning wounds. These fungi overwinter in infected wood and can be dispersed by wind, rain, or pruning tools, leading to new infections. Burning infected material destroys these spores and prevents their spread. However, Dodon has decided that instead of creating a sterile vineyard environment they mulch the dormant pruning wood, dilute and spread across the vineyard in order for the vines to build nature resistance to the spores.

Finally, Tom met our group within the winery and the conversation eventually turned to Pierce's Disease. This is a lethal plant disease caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa, which infects grapevines and other crops by colonizing their xylem— the water-conducting tissues.  This blockage disrupts water and nutrient transport, leading to symptoms such as leaf scorching (browning along margins), premature leaf drop (leaving petioles attached, known as "matchsticks"), stunted growth, shriveled fruit, and eventually vine death within 1–5 years.  The disease is primarily transmitted by xylem-feeding insects, especially sharpshooter leafhoppers and spittlebugs. Traditionally this disease affected mostly southern vineyards, as the bacteria died over winter from colder temperatures. But as winter temperatures have increased Pierce's Disease pressures have increased as well. The standard practice is to rip out affected and surrounding vines and to spray to eliminate the sharpshooters. Instead, Dodon is removing sharpshooter favored habitat (i.e Sycamore & Sweetgum trees and various wetland plants) and replacing with locust & willow trees as well as aromatic herbs that repel sharpshooters and attract beneficial insects that feed on the sharpshooter eggs. 

A Quiet Model for Maryland and East Coast Agriculture

The Vineyards at Dodon offers a measured, practical example of how regenerative farming can be integrated into a commercial vineyard. The work is incremental and grounded in observation, but its direction is clear: healthier soils, more resilient ecosystems, and a farming model that respects the complexity of nature.  To learn more attend Tom's presentations at the Eastern Winery Exposition. 

View similar articles on Regenerative Farming. 

"And despite increasingly difficult conditions, when these methods are combined with meticulous canopy management, yields and fruit quality have consistently improved. It is a resilient, healthy ecosystem living in harmony and reciprocity with its human inhabitants." -- The Vineyards at Dodon