The quince tree was looking a picture, laden with fruit that scented the air on warm days, but when the weather threatened to intervene with near hurricane force winds I decided that even in our comparatively sheltered garden it would be wise to harvest the crop rather than leave the fruit to be flung to the ground. Quince is the ultimate slow food – slow to peel and prepare, slow to cook, but totally delicious and worth the effort. Don’t try to eat them raw though – they are incredibly hard and have an instant mouth-drying effect. Cooked they are divine. This year’s quince feast began with a quince and ginger cake and some quince and ginger jelly to eat with cheese. Membrillo (quince paste) is a more usual accompaniment to cheese and I’ve previously said that life is too short to make it, but I’ve changed my mind since finding somewhat less labour-intensive recipes where some of the stirring is replaced by having the paste dry in a very low oven. A post on membrillo-making will be coming soon…