I met Susan Lewis at a party a few weeks ago and immediately liked her fun spirit and chic style. Also we are both ex New Yorkers and surprisingly knew many of the same people in the fashion world. Enjoy this fascinating interview. Don't you love her fabulous Carven dress in the photo above?
Where were you born and where did you grow up?
I was born on the fifth floor of a luxury department store in New York, between the Hermes and Burberrys corners, but closer to the Tiffany in-store boutique. My parents lived nearby, across the river, in New Jersey.
Why and when did you move to Paris?
I moved to Paris twice. The first time as a recent college graduate a week after I met him on his motorcycle and he confiscated my passport. I moved again 15 years later, still with him, and a big shopping bag with two precious items: Gabriel and Julian, whom we picked up while living respectively in New York and London.
One of your first jobs in New York was with Peter Rogers who created the famous What Becomes a Legend Most/BlackGlama ads. What was that experience like and what were some of the important things you learned from Peter?
Peter was the quintessential ad-man in New York. His charm, smarts, talent and thorough understanding of creative communication was, still is, second to none. I had made the decision to work in Luxury while attending Art school in both Syracuse and London. Luxury back then was not of course the powerhouse segment it is today and Peter explained Luxury advertising to me: its codes, its soul, its possibilities. We still keep in touch although he never came to visit in Paris; if you read this Peter, get to it please.
After Peter Rogers Associates you moved into luxury retail, working at Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Ave. How was working in retail different that working in an ad agency?
Going from international ad campaigns to local Retail was a necessary evolution for me.
Retail changed the perspective at two important levels: first, it put me right in front of the customer, which is indispensable: everyone in a company, from the CEO to the Janitor, need to face the Customer at some point to understand what the ultimate challenge is. And Retail, unlike campaigns which often focus on a single product with a microscopic lens for months, also allowed me to manage multiple brands in one arena, the retail theater: a fascinating assignment which needs reinvention daily.
Experience marketing was not a discipline back then, but I knew I’d love it and being exposed to it would help me as a Creative Director. In the end, it allowed me to do great work with another super interesting segment of luxury: hotels. Because hotels and department stores like to compete with each other, especially in terms of customer experience, what I learned at Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue helped me a great deal, with Mandarin Oriental for example when we worked on “ephemère” marketing and the re-launch of hotels and restaurants.
After New York you moved to London, then Paris. What were the challenges of working in the European market and what were the adjustments you had to make?
By then I had started a bicultural family, which very much defined my career. As luxury was becoming global, few Creatives had the necessary exposure to crystalise two of the most important luxury cultures in one single head: the French Luxury culture – ie: the luxury “savoir-faire” - and the American Luxury culture, which was more about consumerism at the time.
Your readership is very international Richard: most know the challenges of integrating into a foreign culture; I was lucky to be able to practice at home, before applying what I learned there in the office. Yes, there were, there still are adjustments; that’s what makes our lives so exciting.
Are luxury brands perceived differently in the U.S. than in Europe and if yes, how so?
Because Europe has such an old history, a history often punctuated by sublimation, outstanding taste, luxury, sometimes excesses (remember Versailles :-), some European luxury brands are old, much older than the average American brand. With this history comes a sense of responsibility vis-a-vis a brand, which is senior to any other consideration when communicating about the brand. But this history is not a handicap when one knows how to massage it and bring creativity and innovation. Look at what Marc Jacobs did with Vuitton for example.
You were hired by Euro-Disney for the 15 year anniversary celebration. What was it like working Mickey and Minnie instead of super models and working with such a commercial brand instead of a luxury brand?
That is a great question Richard. People often ask me what the link is between Disney and luxury. But if you accept that luxury is not just about the products and their prices, that it is about craftsmanship, excellence, tradition, that it is about d-r-e-a-m-s, then you have your answer. Because all these considerations apply to the Disney brand and culture. This is the link. And Disney invented the Theme Park segment. They certainly are as passionate, innovative and visionary with their products and services than some of the most impressive luxury brands.
Last, the bi-cultural thing really helped with Euro-Disney. To give you one example of many, I sat on a conference call with the Marketing Head who had all his staff around him and I thought I was going to be fired or reprimanded harshly for requesting significant adjustments to a brief. After a long silence, he told his staff “We hired Susan because she, through her personal and professional experiences, more than anyone in this room or in this company, can crystalise what Disney wants to achieve with its French and European guests. I will, you will, take her input into account and adjust our sacrosaint Disney brief”. What a smart decision he made that day! I have not met many people who would be willing to bend the corporate religion to do what is really best for the brand, especially at Disney! But he understood that, as Jack Welch said: “You cannot put culture in a spreadsheet. You have to trust those who are bridges to this culture”.
You have worked with many talented and creative people in the fashion industry including top models, photographers, hair and makeup artists, fashion editors, and fashion stylists. Who are some of your favorites? Who surprised you, who disappointed you?
I have always been surprised on many different levels when embarking on a project from conception to execution with a photographer. There are so many layers that unfold and when you find a photographer that understands the depth of those layers and has his own proper vision, the collaboration becomes magical because you know that the end result will be extraordinary. It is always great collaborations between creative minds that will bring a concept to the next level.
The word disappointed is not really in my vocabulary. As a creative director I take responsibility for my projects. It is a collaboration, I think it is more about learning from our failures (however big or small) because that is what makes us stronger and better the next time around.
I so loved working with photographers Steve Hiett , David Seidner , Matthew Rolston, Christopher Micaud, Morgan Roudaut , Ben Hassett, Patrick Demarchelier and with Celeste Duquesne (make-up artist and beauty consultant), Julia von Boehm (fashion stylist), Virginie Brachet (set designer and paper artwork artist), Sabrina Transiskus (paper artwork artist)
You recently co-started ElssCollection, a luxury clothing rental business. How did you become involved with ElssCollection and please tell us the concept.
Pascale Guasp, who originated the idea for ElssCollection, approached me to be a co-founder and give life to this brand. I immediately accepted for several reasons.
ElssCollection rents luxury clothing to women who are tired of paying very high prices for clothes they will wear only a few times. With ElssCollection luxury clothing enters the sharing economy and treats luxury in a different way, which is fascinating for someone in my line of work. You noticed what it says on our front door when you enter the showroom: “A small step for woman, a giant leap for womankind. ElssCollection, la passion du luxe partagé”. This is what we are about.
Also, ElssCollection cross-sells in a physical+digital way because it mixes both retail, with a fabulous showroom rue Beaujon in Paris, and e-commerce, with a website that allows our clients to choose their outfits and to make an appointment at the showroom. Last, it is about smart women: ElssCollection allows women to look their best whenever they want to, which I like to believe helps them in their daily life and their career. They also save time and money with this service.
So, as an independent Creative Director, it was a fabulous opportunity for me to apply what I have learned in Luxury over the years, in New York, London and Paris among other places, to a new brand. And I get to follow this new brand as it learns to walk and eventually run, while continuing to work with other clients, which enriches me greatly with every project.
Who are some of your favorite fashion designers today?
I’d have to list Marc Jacobs, because I knew him from the days he was designing sweaters that his grandmother was knitting before becoming a fashion icon. What he has done with LV is just amazing, bringing daring and modern to a very traditional brand.
Hedi Slimane (St Laurent) because he changed the way a generation of men dressed.
He invented the skinny look for men. Not only a great clothing designer but a multi-faceted artist. He has styled many celebrities including David Bowie (my favorite music artist) and is an incredible photographer.
Christopher Bailey (Burberry) because he had a global vision of the Burberry brand and has taken it to another level without sacrificing its DNA. Burberry has also become a digital leader in the fashion industry, and he is no stranger to that initiative. Digital is something I try to pay a lot of attention to professionally.
Alexander Wang (Balenciaga) for his edgy androgynous design aesthetic.
Consuelo Castiglioni (Marni) because her designs are elegant, feminine and sexy.
Carven (Guillaume Henry who recently stepped down). His designs are serious and playful at the same time, which make the clothes original works of art. I love the long dress I wore for our ElssCollection Launch Event, which you shot Richard.
What do you prefer about Paris?
A difficult question; probably an impossible question to answer Richard. But since you are not going to let me get away with it, I’d say that what I prefer about Paris is its “rayonnement”. Like the light on top of the Eiffel Tower shines above Paris, Paris shines throughout the world on many fine territories: the Arts, Fashion, Cuisine, Architecture, Advertising and so on. Paris is not the biggest, hottest capital, but it awakens all 7 senses to whoever gets close to it. Paris is a tremendous contributor for those who appreciate beauty and excellence, which makes Paris the quintessential luxury city.
http://www.lewxury.com/
New Venue for My Photos
I have been invited by a café to display my photos, so if you missed seeing them at my show last month they will be up till November 3.
Café Petit Luxe
29 rue Vaugirard, 75006
Metro: St. Sulpice
Open Monday-Friday 8:30AM-9:30PM,Saturday 8:30AM-6PM
I am happy to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Cooking Classes. Come take an ethnic culinary journey with me and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, co-author of the bestseller The Ethnic Paris Cookbook (with Olivia Kiang-Snaije). First we will shop at a Paris green-market for the freshest ingredients and then return to Charlotte's professional kitchen near the Eiffel Tower to cook a three-course lunch. After, we will indulge in the delicious feast we prepared along with hand-selected wines.
Cost: 185 euros per person (about $240)
Time: 9:30AM- 2PM (approximately 4 1/2 hours)
Location: We will meet by a metro station close to the market
Class days: Tuesday,Wednesday, Thursday,Friday, Saturday, and Sunday
Minimum of 2 students, maximum 6 students.
Click here to sign up for the next class or for more info.
I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.
Tours cost 210 euros for up to 3 people, and 70 euros for each additional person. I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.
Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com
Click here to watch a video of our famous Marais tour