Soon the silence is broken, ironically, with the cessation of the music. All the other mice clap, and I open my eyes and remember that I'm not alone. Chatter, the strobing of flash, and clashing applause bring me back to today. I've put my camera away with my voice, I might regret it later. I am at one of the seven wonders of the world, a tourist destination of the highest order, and to my surprise, even the cringing cynic in me is spellbound. The camera just can't capture this, and I miss out if I stick myself behind the lens. My husband grinns like a loon. My eldest son is gobsmacked, frozen in gape - a miracle, I believe. We are at ancient Petra. At night.
"Wake up my son!" he cries. Again and again. His accent is thick, and the echoing chasm makes a mockery of him. "What am I doing here?" he asks, pacing before us with questioning arms open wide. I'm not entirely sure. I can't understand him. I think he is personifying the Treasury, waking it from its two-thousand year sleep, asking it what it is, what purpose it may have. I can't find the answer, nobody can. Like Stonehenge, this monument will baffle all those who attend it. Who made it? Why? How did they survive in this dusty corner of Maan? Why would they want to live out here anyway? Is it faintly possible what some say about Petra being the true birthplace of Islam?
All I know is that sitting here, in this secluded nest, I feel magic around me. If God was to visit me anywhere, it would be here.
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The rate is 12 JD per person, with kids under 12 free, so considering the day rate of entry is usually 50, it's not so bad, especially as entertainment is provided, which although meagre, is perfectly apt. We went at peak season (spring), and although crowded, there was ample room to sit in comfort, and the audience were perfectly behaved - perhaps it is the awe, or maybe the fearful candle-lit masks of the bedouins leading the event?
The walk is not difficult, even our 5 year old made it all the way down. But there are no horses or donkeys at night, so ensure you're up for a trek - it's a good kilometer - probably a little more. Some is gravel, some sand, some cobbles, some concrete, some flat, and some with a slight incline. Don't even consider a stroller, and even if your child is older, pack a sling - we carried Goldilocks all the way back up, while he feigned sleep and seemed to weigh a further ten grams for every step we took.
For more information, visit www.petrapark.com and check out Lonely Planet's Gallery for a few more night shots. If you wish to gain entry before the hoards, contact the park direct, and you might get couple of shots in peace with a tripod.