My Perfect Day in Hlane Royal Park, Swaziland

I had an almost perfect day in Hlane Royal Park – I saw elephants hanging out at a local watering hole, observed lions for the first time and the only wild lions in Swaziland!  But being the local celebrities that they are, they had no intention of disturbing their beauty sleep for a non-VIP like me.  The icing on the cake was observing four rhinos in the wild, including a baby rhino and his mother.   It was incredible to observe such a critically endangered animal in their natural habitat, just hanging out.

So why wasn’t my day perfect?  I wasn’t in Hlane Royal Park for long enough and had to leave long before I was ready to!  Yes, I know, poor me, but as a result I have designed my perfect day in Hlane Royal Park so that other visitors can experience all the park has to offer and not miss out on anything.  I also hope it will serve as my future itinerary for when I hopefully return.
 I would start the day off with an early morning bike ride through the park. Can you imagine cycling through the savannah?  If cycling is not your thing, guided hikes are also offered.  Sonnyboy, the park manager recommends doing it first thing in the morning before it gets too hot.   It would be such a different way to experience the park and you never know who you’re going to bump into – perhaps an impala?  Or maybe one of the “Ugly Five” like a hyena or a warthog – both of who which I find adorable and definitely don’t think either belong on the “Ugly Five”.  Ever wanted to try and out-cycle a lion? Or weave your bike through a herd of elephants?   No chance of it here, luckily, since they’re in a separate (gated) area of the park.

Next I would do the Game Drive at 11:00 am.  This is what I went on and I loved it.  Our guide Napoleon had incredible eyes and could spot a sleeping camouflaged lion from 10 meters away – something I didn’t see until we were much closer and he pointed straight at it.  It’s also your chance to observe elephants, something that is only safe to do with a safari jeep.

 I would then have lunch in the Ndlovu Restaurant where you can observe giraffes or even rhinos at the watering hole.  Talk about some incredible company!

Belly full, I would hop on the safari jeep for the rhino drive at 3:00 pm.  The rhino drive consists of driving around in a safari jeep with a guide looking for….you guessed it… rhinos.  But not only do you drive around, if the rhinos are relaxed your guide may even let you get out of the jeep and slowly move closer to the rhinos to get a better glimpse of these endangered animals poached for their horns.  I was incredibly jealous when I saw a group of people out of their jeep getting a closer look at the rhinos.  This option was not available on the Game Drive that I was on, only on the Rhino Drive – I would chew off my right leg (well maybe my left leg) to get closer to such a remarkable animal!  Thankfully, I didn’t have to chew off any legs and the rhinos decided to come near the jeep path so I could get a good view.

Finally, I would end my day by staying at Ndlovu Camp, a self catered cottage that Mswati III, the King of Swaziland stays at when he visits.  Fortunately it’s also available for non-royalty as well so you can feel like royalty!  There’s no electricity, (the appliances are run by gas) and lighting is by kerosene lamps so its rustic but spacious and appears very comfortable.  Guests can either eat at the nearby restaurant or use their own private Braai (BBQ) area while observing animals around the watering hole.  I didn’t stay there, but was told by a guest that the sounds you hear at night make for an entertaining guessing game as you try and guess which animal is making which sound.  There’s an electric fence separating you from the animals so you can sleep safe and sound.  I don’t know how good I would be at differentiating a hyena from a monkey, but I think it would be fun to give it a shot!

Know Before You Go to Hlane Royal Park

• Guided cycling and hiking tours can be arranged with as few as 1-2 people and at any time throughout the day with advance notice.
• The best time to visit Hlane Royal Park is between June to early September, because its winter and the watering holes are more limited, increasing your chances of seeing more animals.
• Several accommodation options are available ranging from 75 Rand per person (€7.50) camping and up, but are very reasonable.
• In addition to the Hlane Royal Park there is also Mkhaya which is home to Swaziland’s only black rhino population and Mlilwane, which offers lots of family friendly activities.  I didn’t have time to visit either of these parks, but would like to.
• All revenues from the park are redirected towards a private non-profit conservation trust.
• Hlane Royal Park is located just over 100 km from Mbabane, the capital of Swaziland.
• Check the Hlane Royal Park website for more information
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