It's only fair that any discussion about Morels will begin with a mention of Alexis. They occupy the same premises. They still have all the old awards on the door outside. There's a good reason for this though, as the same chef, Alan O'Reilly, is in the kitchen. As a result the menu has hints of it's predecessor. Is there anything different you ask? Well the welcome was definitely warmer and the hideous designer wallpaper is gone. So that's two very positive points for starters!
A few letters have changed over the door but thankfully that is all.
We purchased a Rewarding Times deal which consisted of four courses and a bottle of wine for €69. There was a well thought out set menu to choose from. If it hadn't been for this deal the opening of the restaurant would have completely passed me by!
I started with the crab and avocado salad while himself opted for the veal ravioli. A tower of crab meat arrived in front of me, a bit hidden by some unnecessary leaves, but very generous. The crab was succulent, the avocados ripe, the small chopped up pieces of mango contrasted both wonderfully. I thought it was a really well put together dish, it looked and tasted great. My only small complaint was the temperature of the dish, it was so cold it nearly set my teeth chattering! To be honest though, I'm not sure how the kitchen could have overcome this, it's not like you can leave crab meat sitting around in a hot kitchen for hours.
Crab and avocado salad with apple and lemon dressing
His starter consisted of one large ravioli which was bulging with veal and covered with a tasty sauce and some hazelnuts. He was very impressed. It was a hearty and tasty dish and he couldn't say one bad word about it.
Veal ravioli with roasted hazelnut vinaigrette
The ravioli was always going to be a hard act to follow. The slow cooked top rib of beef arrived tender and juicy, it crumbled at the touch of his fork. The accompanying gravy was really well seasoned. Could I taste some stout in there? The small oxtail beignet was a nice touch and the fondant potatoes were perfectly cooked. Truth be told though there was too much on the plate, half the amount offered would have been just as good and perhaps the presentation would have been better as a result.
Slow cooked top rib of beef
I opted for the lobster. It was presented on the half-shell with some blanched vegetables in a bisque sauce all of which lay on a bed of champ. I'm not going to pretend that I eat lobster all the time and am an expert on what it should taste like! In fact the last time I ate lobster was 2002! All I can say is that the tail was lovely and juicy, verging on being over done but thankfully not. The claws were amazing, succulent and sweet, they were so soft I barely needed a knife to cut them. This was a superb dish.
Wild lobster
Somehow we both managed dessert, for him an oozy chocolate cake wrapped in pastry and for me a strawberry fool with ginger biscuits. They were really well present and satisfied the sweet tooth in both of us. Two average espresso washed it all down along with the end of our bottle of Spanish white.
Chocolate cake with salted caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream
Strawberry fool with ginger biscuits
To revisit a previous question, is there anything different? To sum it all up I have to say no, but of course, that's a good thing! There's the same commitment to local produce, cooked well and presented handsomely, if anything it all might be a tad better than in Alexis. This, coupled with the fact that for some inexplicable reason I felt much more relaxed in Morels, means I'll definitely be revisiting and checking out the a la carte menu. Fingers crossed Morels will be around for a long time to come.
Morels Bistro Bar and Grill
17-18 Patrick's Street
Dun Laoghaire
Co Dublin
01 280 8872
http://www.morels.ie/