Llandudno is North Wales's great seaside resort, a much-loved stopover on the journey from the shovel-and-shovel-and-static resorts of the east to the castles and mountains and posh destinations of the west. Although decline has begun in Rhyl and Colwyn Bay - not to mention most English coastal towns - Llandudno is seen as bucking the trend.
Is it true? Based on my two-day stay, that is indeed the case. I visited on a lovely sunny day in early May, and the town and beach looked spectacular. In the morning there was a smell in the air, which is as traditional to the English coast as boulders and cockles, but by the afternoon it was downright sultry.
Llandudno feels old, but not in a bad way. The coast is reminiscent of the Victorian era. A two-mile stretch of pretty terraced houses, punctuated by grand four-star hotels such as the St George's, still going strong, and the Washington, now a restaurant, looks all the better for its horseshoe-shaped bay. The ball is a glory, with palm trees and a large area for walking, benches and works of art.
Many seaside resorts may be too dependent on their coast. Llandudno has more than that. There are hills at either end: the Little Orme and the larger Great Orme. You'll see these as you stroll through the town, as well as glimpses of the mountains of Snowdonia. On a hot day it can look Mediterranean.
A thriving shopping street
A block further, on Mostyn Street, is a real shopping street, with few empty spaces. There are plenty of banks and free ATMs and cash is accepted everywhere. For self-catering (chalet holidays are big business here) there are supermarkets and a large Marks and Spencer on a large retail park. Some shops look a bit hopeful - like Johnny Throws ax throwing - and there are the usual tired chains, but the overall atmosphere is livelier than many cities. Many storefronts have awnings, some with ornate filigree and arched windows.
There are many listed buildings, chapels, churches, a museum and gallery, and pubs not owned by Wetherspoons. The average age may be around seventy, but I also see young parents and people in their twenties; the cafes - and there are many - are busy. Providero makes great flat white and Portuguese custard tarts. You don't need hipsters to satisfy hipster tastes.
The long pier is tucked away a bit to blend in, but isn't marred by endless arcades; there are just a few slot machines and a pub at the end with plenty of outdoor seating. They were playing the Kinks when I arrived, which seemed to fit the era being drafted.
Llandudno developed from a mining town. Neighboring Conwy is a walled market town with a UNESCO World Heritage Site castle. The two resorts operate together and offer quite a range of services and amenities for holiday families, golfers, sailors, coastal walkers and city escapists. This year there is a new one Alice in Wonderland-inspired gaming experience called Finding Alice, a new 15-stop Heritage Trail and the Ffin y Parc Gallery, relocated to Trinity Square from the inland town of Llanrwst.
Walking past the ball is beautiful in Llandudno. When I stepped out for a pre-dinner stroll, a sea gorge had turned the town's pier dark and magical. But as I walked towards the Little Orme the mist lifted and everything was brilliantly clear again.
What is it really like?
The pandemic has hit Llandudno hard. Many hotels and other businesses collapsed. Some places - the Grand Hotel above the pier is the most obvious - need more than a lick of paint.
A few more independent shops would add a lot to the city. Currently it feels like it is owned by chains. There's also a market for bolder, locally focused restaurants.
The city seems to be preparing for this summer season with great enthusiasm. The small shelters with benches along the beach are all being renovated. The Craig-y-Don paddling pool at the front - which had to be refurbished because it was dangerously slippery - will reopen soon and is "still available".
What's not to like about it?
The shops on the pier are boring. People sell "crystals". Another only sells quirky nameplates. These may be typical of the English coast, but it's a shame you can find such tat while the fish kiosk was closed on a late spring day.
The entertainment offering at North Wales resorts is patchy, with too many tribute bands and not enough quality art. But the Banff Mountain Film Festival tour came to the Cymru location in April.
The phone signal is poor everywhere in the city; that needs to be sorted, especially since QR codes are used to share information at historical sites.
Do this
The Great Orme is a limestone headland that rises directly from the sea to a height of 200 metres. The walk is beautiful, but you can also ride up on the Great Orme Tramway, which has been taking passengers to the top since 1898. There is also a one-mile cable car to the top and minibus options available. On a clear day you can see the lakes and the Isle of Man, and there's a visitor centre, a nature reserve with Kashmir goats, pitch 'n' putt golf and a playground.
In 2021, Welsh whiskey maker Penderyn opened its new Llandudno distillery. Tours of the mill, the mash tun and the innovative single copper pot still end with a small dram (or "diferyn bach") in the Tasting Bar. There are master classes for enthusiasts.
Visit Wales' dedicated Llandudno and Colwyn Bay pages, a great source of activities for flying visits or longer stays.
Eat this
As well as plenty of fish and chip restaurants - the one that looks like a lighthouse on the pier is good - Llandudno has the usual British provincial spread of pizzas, curries, tea shops (with Welsh cakes and bara brith) and hotel restaurants. The St George Hotel's Terrace Restaurant serves Welsh lamb, fish, seafood and cheeses. Dylan's, in Washington, serves locally caught sea bass, Welsh beef and plenty of options for kids.
Look out for Conwy mussels, which come from deep in the seabed of the Conwy estuary. I didn't find any laverbread ("Welsh caviar"), which seems a shame - although it is better associated with the south coast and the Gower Peninsula.
A short drive inland, Bodnant Welsh Food has a good, locally focused shop and restaurant.
But don't do this
The Carlton pub looks like a great free house, but is owned by mega chain Stonegate and hosts bingo on Thursday evenings and karaoke on Fridays. I know bingo 'belongs' in seaside resorts, but certainly not in a second-tier drinking establishment.
From a local
"It's a beautiful place to live," says Helen Parkes, 37, who moved here from London two years ago with her husband and three children. "We sometimes say that it is a holiday that never ends. It's lacking in terms of retail and culture - Conwy next door has spent more on it and has more independent shops - but living here you realize that life isn't all about money."
Liz Westwood, 21, works at Llandudno Pier Coffee Shop. "I came here from the Midlands to live with my grandmother and start over in a sense," she says. "You always have the beach and the mountains. I get along well with people of all ages, but there are young people here too, if you want to find them. The only negative is the 32 km/h rule where it is not necessary; it causes traffic jams, increases emissions and is really unpopular."
"Living here is like going back in time 50 years," says 80-year-old Ray, who retired to Llandudno almost 30 years ago. "The older ladies still dress neatly. When it is dark, you can go for a walk. There are no rough gangs cursing and fighting."
From a tourist
Yvonne Hurst, 56, from Manchester, has a caravan outside Llandudno. "I think it's different from other beach resorts because of its natural beauty and that's why they naturally keep it looking nice. There is no litter, they keep it clean. I don't like the Welsh Government but they are doing something here."
Four friends from South Yorkshire, Janet Booth, Sharon Lindley, Christine Tarmey and Pamela Lydster, "collective age over 300", were unanimous in their praise for Llandudno. "The ball is beautiful," Janet said. "We just went up the Great Orme in the open top minibus and it was beautiful. You don't have bigger monsters running around like in Blackpool. They should probably take the younger generations into account more. There's nothing for them now.'
"My favorite place in North Wales, maybe anywhere," says Carolyn Haycock, 59, from St Helens. "We come here almost every month and even in winter it is busy and cozy. There are a lot of people there all year round."
"I suffer from dementia and come here for a bit of peace," says Robert Berry, 66, from Collyhurst, Manchester. "We have been coming for thirty years. Llandudno is stable. It's the same every year. Nothing changes."
How do you get there?
Llandudno has direct trains to Manchester and Chester. Nearby Llandudno Junction offers direct links to Cardiff, Birmingham International and London Euston. The line runs along the coast, leaving the built-up, industrialized boundaries behind, offering views of the beach. The A55 is a decent quasi-motorway and offers beautiful views once you pass Rhyl. The A470, which winds through the heart of the country, is also known as "Wales' Route 66"; it's the ideal way to get in slow travelers.