Les Provinces in the 12th: Christophe Dru’s Products Are Perfect; but the Cook Needs to Learn the Difference Between Rosé, Saignant and Bleu.

By Johntalbott




5.7 (Products 8, execution 5) Les Provinces, 20 rue d'Aligre in the 12th, 01.43.43.91.64, closed Mondays, is no longer "no reservations, standing room only," Christophe Dru hired a chef to do cooking of all his stuff a la plancha.  And the stuff is top notch quality.

I convinced my buddies from the Left Bank to go carnivore today and we started with two platters of superb house-made terrines and porkie stuff - truly great - we argued over what was best - and a bottle soon to turn to two - of a wine from the Var.



Then failing to convince either to share a cotes de boeuf, they both had lamb - ordered and delivered rosé and saignant respectively and I ordered an entrecote - bleu!  Theirs were as ordered - mine was Sacré Bleu, well-done, to be charitable and the potatoes albeit good, alternated between cold and hot.  In fact, theirs were less well-done than mine - go figure!

Pause - "John, Why didn't you send it back?"  Ans. "Because ours were the 5th-7th orders in a kitchen that had now received another 20 plus so the wait, inconvenience and dislocated service delivery was just not worth it."

At this point we were pretty full, but I was pissed off about the steak and induced my friends to order a plate of superb cheeses and a sort of nothing "pudding" with chocolate and I had a floating island hoping Colette might join me when she comes back - it was not bad.

With about 2 bottles of wine, no bottled water and decent bread, our bill was about 93 E a couple.

Go back?  It's unfair to punish them for the over-done steak, cold potatoes and bland pudding when the other 6 dishes were superb - but that's the way it goes.