Heirlooms are the tomato equivalent of James Dean – a symbol of nostalgia and youthful rebellion in a market saturated with tasteless, GMO-injected produce of uniform shape and quality. Refusing to conform to our predisposed notions of Solanum lycopersicum and the shiny red globes we expect it to provide. Martyrs of modern agriculture, no doubt.
What separates an heirloom from the rest of the crowd is the same as what distinguishes Mitt Romney from a spider monkey. Slight differences in DNA structures create two unique organisms, one of which is more desirable than the other (sorry Mitt). Heirlooms lack a genetic mutation present in commercial crops that lowers carotenoid levels and gives them their uniform size, color, and taste (or lack thereof). As a result, they can be found in a wide variety of physical forms, ranging from round and yellow to green and striped. The names of these different varietals reflect the nostalgia we associate with artisanal food products: Brandywine red, Cherokee purple, Green Zebra, and Big Rainbow are a few of the most famous examples.
But at the end of the day, the flavor of an heirloom tomato is what really matters. Chefs and suburban housewives swoon over its texture and taste: firm but not too firm, sweet but not artificially. It’s typically served in salads and simple preparations that highlight the fruit’s raw, natural beauty. In today’s recipe, fresh goat cheese and a simple jalapeño-infused vinaigrette put a Southern California twist on the classic Italian Caprese. Choose a deep red heirloom to complement the green and white colors of the other ingredients. Mexican flag, anyone?
Salad:
1 heirloom tomato
1 oz fresh goat cheese
1 scallion, chopped
cilantro leaves
sea salt
Jalapeño Vinaigrette:
1 jalapeño, seeded
1/4 cup fresh cilantro
2 limes
2 tbsp agave nectar
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
For the vinaigrette: Place all ingredients in a blender. Process until smooth.
For the salad: Slice tomato horizontally. Arrange on a plate and top with slices of goat cheese and a cilantro leaf. Drizzle with vinaigrette and sprinkle with scallions and sea salt.