The Llogara Pass is one of the most scenic drives in Albania, with hairpin bends, sweeping sea views, and sheer drops that’ll keep you on your toes.
I’ve driven this road plenty of times and it still makes me grin every time. One minute you’re weaving through thick pine forest, the next you’re staring out over the turquoise Ionian coast far below.
It’s not a difficult drive, but it’s worth knowing what to expect before you set off. Here’s what you’ll find along the way, plus a few practical tips from experience.
Table of Contents
Toggle- Where is the Llogara Pass?
- History of the Pass
- Is Driving the Llogara Pass Dangerous?
- Weather and Seasonal Tips
- What’s the Drive Like?
- Best Stops Along the Way
- Exploring the Big Bunker
- Must-See Views
- Practical Information
- How Long is the Drive?
- Getting to the Llogara Pass
- Tips for Car Rentals
- Other Things to Do in Llogara National Park
- Best Time to Drive the Llogara Pass
- Where to Stay Near the Llogara Pass
- Extra Tips
- FAQs
- Is it difficult to drive over the Llogara Pass?
- Can I drive the Llogara Pass in winter?
- Are there gas stations on the Llogara Pass route?
- How to prepare for the Llogara Pass drive?
- Final Thoughts
Need help planning your next trip? Hire me as your Personal Travel Planner!
Where is the Llogara Pass?
The Llogara Pass cuts through the Ceraunian Mountains in southern Albania, linking Vlorë with the Riviera towns further south like Dhërmi and Himarë.
Climbing to just over 1,000 metres, it’s part of the SH8 highway and one of the most scenic stretches of tarmac in the Balkans.
The road winds above the Ionian Sea, offering huge views in every direction. Forest, cliffs, mountains, and deep blue water.
History of the Pass
Built in the 1920s and improved over time, the pass has long been an important link between Albania’s north and south.
Locals still talk about “Caesar’s Pass”, named after Julius Caesar, who’s said to have crossed here with his army.
Is Driving the Llogara Pass Dangerous?
Not really. The Llogara Pass looks dramatic, but it’s a straightforward drive if you take it steady.
The road’s fully paved and in decent condition, with smooth tarmac and clear markings most of the way.
It does get narrow in a few spots, especially near tight bends, and you’ll sometimes need to slow right down to let another car pass.
Traffic’s usually light outside summer, though you might meet a few coaches or the odd herd of goats in the road.
If you’re new to mountain driving, go easy on the corners and keep your speed low. Use a lower gear on descents to save your brakes.
Fog can roll in quickly near the top, so switch to low beams and pull over if visibility drops.
In winter, the pass can be icy or closed after heavy snow. Unless you’re confident on frozen mountain roads, it’s better to skip it and take the tunnel instead.
The rest of the year, it’s a joy to drive. Just take your time and enjoy the views.
Weather and Seasonal Tips
The weather around the Llogara Pass changes fast. In summer, you’ll usually get bright blue skies and warm air even up high, though it can feel cooler near the top.
It’s the easiest time to drive, but also the busiest. Expect more campervans and tour buses.
Spring and autumn are my favourite times. The air’s crisp, the views are sharp, and you’ll often have the road to yourself.
Fog can drift in during the mornings and late afternoons, so keep your lights on and be patient.
In winter, snow and ice sometimes close the road for days. When it’s clear though, the forest looks incredible under a dusting of white.
Unless you’ve got winter tyres and mountain driving experience, it’s best to take the new tunnel instead.
What’s the Drive Like?
Driving the Llogara Pass feels like an adventure, even if you’ve done it before.
The road climbs through dense pine forest, twisting all the way up to around 1,000 metres before opening out to the Ionian Sea below.
It’s one of those drives where you keep stopping just to stare. On a clear day you can see the coastline stretching south towards Dhërmi and the faint outline of Corfu on the horizon.
Best Stops Along the Way
There are a few places worth pulling over for. The road has several lay-bys with jaw-dropping views.
Near the top of the pass, Restaurant Apollonia serves amazing food including traditional Albanian salads and grilled meat.
It’s my favourite place for a quick bite to eat or a coffee before tackling the descent.
You’ll also see several old concrete bunkers along the route – relics from Albania’s communist era.
Just past the crest, a short signed path leads to Caesar’s Pass, named after Julius Caesar, who’s said to have marched his army through here.
Exploring the Big Bunker
The Big Bunker, near the top of the pass, is one of the most interesting stops on the drive.
I stumbled across it the first time I drove the pass and had no idea you could actually go all the way through it.
On my most recent visit, I discovered it’s open at both ends, cutting straight through the rock. The two entrances are located just below the hairpin with the derelict two-storey building.
Inside, it’s pitch black and scattered with rubble and the odd broken glass bottle, so you’ll need a torch and enclosed shoes. There’s no lighting or signage.
I don’t know the official length and couldn’t find any measurements online. But it felt like at least 100 metres long.
There are various side rooms branching off the main passage, but I don’t think you could get lost.
During the rule of Enver Hoxha, Albania built hundreds of thousands of defensive bunkers in different sizes, from small firing posts to larger command structures with tunnels like this.
It’s rough, raw, and completely uncommercial. No tickets, no fences, just a forgotten Cold War relic on a spectacular bend in the road.
Step carefully, take it slow, and you’ll get to experience a slice of history most travellers miss.
(And, obviously, enter at your own risk!)
Must-See Views
Pull over whenever you can safely do it.
The best panorama is just beyond the summit, where the road drops towards Dhërmi. From here the Ionian Sea seems endless, with layers of blue fading into the horizon.
It’s one of those rare drives that makes you slow down, even when the road begs you to keep moving.
Practical Information
How Long is the Drive?
The Llogara Pass only takes around 45 minutes to cross, but you’ll want to stop a few times. From Vlorë, it’s roughly an hour to the summit, then another 20 minutes down to Dhërmi.
For the best visibility, go mid-morning or just after lunch when the fog has lifted. Sunset is stunning too, though you’ll want to finish the descent before dark.
Since the new Llogara Tunnel opened, most through-traffic avoids the mountain road, which makes the drive even better – quieter, calmer, and easier to enjoy.
Getting to the Llogara Pass
The pass sits on the SH8 highway, which runs between Vlorë and Sarandë. From Tirana, it’s about 2.5–3 hours via the A2 motorway, then the SH8 along the coast.
If you’re coming from the south, you’ll hit the climb soon after passing Dhërmi. There are plenty of places to pull over for photos, but watch for cars cutting corners on the bends.
Tips for Car Rentals
Hiring a car is the best way to explore this part of Albania. Any standard car will handle the pass fine, but make sure the brakes are in good shape.
You don’t need a 4×4 unless you’re travelling in winter or heading off-road. Fill up in Vlorë or Dhërmi, as there are no petrol stations on the pass itself.
Other Things to Do in Llogara National Park
Llogara National Park surrounds the upper part of the pass and is one of the best places to escape the coast crowds for a bit of fresh mountain air.
The park’s full of dense pine forest, open meadows, and sharp limestone peaks. It’s great for a short hike or a lazy picnic stop on the way south.
You might spot eagles circling overhead or even a wild boar if you’re lucky.
If you’re up for a walk, try the short Caesar’s Pass trail near the summit or one of the ridge paths leading towards Maja e Çikës, the highest peak in the Ceraunian Mountains.
They’re steep but the views back to the coast are incredible.
For something different, paragliding is popular here. Flights launch from near Panorama Llogara and land on the beaches below Dhërmi.
Watching the gliders drift out over the sea is almost as good as doing it yourself.
Otherwise, find a quiet clearing, unpack some food and enjoy the peace. The scent of the pines and the cool mountain breeze are a welcome break from the coastal heat.
Best Time to Drive the Llogara Pass
The best time to drive the Llogara Pass is between May and October, when the weather’s warm and the views are clear.
During these months the road is usually dry, and you’re unlikely to run into fog or closures.
July and August bring the most traffic, especially tour buses and campervans, but the skies are bright and the sea below glows every shade of blue.
Spring and autumn are ideal if you’d rather have the road mostly to yourself. Temperatures are mild, and the pine forests smell amazing after rain.
Winter can be tricky. Snow and ice often make the higher sections slippery, and fog can sweep in fast.
Unless you’ve got winter tyres and plenty of daylight left, it’s best to skip the pass and take the new tunnel instead.
Whenever you go, check the weather before setting off. It can change quickly up here. A clear morning can easily turn cloudy by lunchtime.
Where to Stay Near the Llogara Pass
If you want to stay right in the mountains, Llogara National Park has a few small lodges and guesthouses tucked among the pines.
It’s quiet up here, and the cool forest air and birdsong feels worlds away from the coast.
Places like Hotel Sofo and Llogara Tourist Village are simple but comfortable, with hearty local food and fire pits that come alive in the evenings.
It’s a good base if you plan to hike or just relax after the drive.
If you prefer to be near the sea, head down to Dhërmi or Himarë, where you’ll find everything from beachfront guesthouses to boutique hotels.
Staying by the coast gives you the best of both worlds. Mornings in the mountains, afternoons on the beach.
There are a few basic campsites inside the park. Facilities are simple, but falling asleep under the stars with the scent of pine in the air is
Extra Tips
Before you set off, top up your fuel. There are no petrol stations on the pass itself. Fill up in Vlorë or Dhërmi.
Bring water and snacks too, as there’s nowhere reliable to stop once you’re climbing. The weather changes quickly, so keep a jacket handy even in summer.
Mobile signal drops in places, so download offline maps before you go. If fog rolls in or the road gets slippery, the new Llogara Tunnel is a good fallback route.
FAQs
Is it difficult to drive over the Llogara Pass?
Not really. It looks dramatic, but the road’s paved and in good condition. Take it slow on the bends, use a lower gear on descents, and you’ll be fine. Fog can roll in near the top, so keep your lights on and don’t rush.
Can I drive the Llogara Pass in winter?
It’s possible, but not ideal. Snow and ice sometimes close the road, and conditions can change quickly. Unless you’ve got winter tyres and mountain driving experience, it’s better to take the tunnel instead.
Are there gas stations on the Llogara Pass route?
None on the pass itself. Fill up in Vlorë before you start or in Dhërmi if you’re coming from the south.
How to prepare for the Llogara Pass drive?
Check your brakes, top up the tank, and download offline maps. Bring water and snacks, and plan to drive in daylight.
Final Thoughts
Driving the Llogara Pass is one of my favourite things to do in Albania. It’s got everything – mountain curves, wild scenery, and that unbeatable moment when the sea suddenly appears below you.
It’s not a hard drive, but it’s the kind you’ll remember. Whether you’re on a road trip down the Riviera or just exploring for the day, take it slow, stop often, and enjoy the ride.
Ready to keep exploring? Check out my other posts on the Albanian Riviera for more incredible destinations to add to your trip!