Does Speck With Sprouts Satisfy The Austrian Appetite?

By Linda

photo : Alec Vuijlsteke

The idea of having a snack between meals is not new. A few biscuits; maybe a crumpet or two; and coffee, tea with cakes often come to mind. But speck with sprouts?

Jause

Eaten between meals, Jause is a bit more than your usual snack. It was originally a sort of mini-meal eaten by Bavarian farmers, craftsmen and migrant people during the hours between breakfast and lunch; lunch and dinner. But now in Austria, it is more akin to a high tea – which may take a number of hours to consume!

What is eaten differs from region to region, but usually includes spicy breads, cheeses, sausages, smoked meats and ham – lots of ham. And to go with the ham there’s more often than not Schnapps or a Krügel (½ litre) of beer. Again, regional variations exist and the provinces of Austria have their own ancient breweries and brewing techniques.

Speck

A firm favourite for the Jause platter, is Speck. This is the hind leg of a pig that has been de-boned and cured in salt and spice – juniper berries, nutmeg and garlic. Herbs like bay leaves and rosemary are also used. The meat is then rested for several weeks, before being smoked slowly for 2-3 hours daily for around a week. Before it can be eaten, the smoked meat is matured over several months.

Although most frequently eaten with hearty wholegrain breads, Speck also goes well with apples, mushrooms, celery and sprouts!

So special is Speck, that some regional varieties have been awarded an internationally recognised rating. The Gaitaler Speck from Carinthia (Kärnten) and the Tiroler Speck from the Tyrolean province for example (both of which have been carefully cured since about the15th century), have protected geographical designation – or PGI status as it is known. This means that meats cured in a similar manner cannot be called by these names. Unpleasant international disputes can develop over something as simple as Speck.

When on holiday in the Austrian Alps, find the Fleischerei (Butcher’s shop) and sample some Speck – with or without sprouts!

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