THE window over the main door of the Bishop’s Palace in Krakow is known as the Pope’s Window. It was from here that John Paul II, born Karol Wojtyla, used to address his followers when visiting the city where he had served as archbishop during the communist regime. This week, a different pontiff is occupying the window. Pope Francis is in Poland for the church’s World Youth Day festival (actually a week, between July 25th and 31st), which is expected to draw over 1m visitors. Although the more conservative pope died in 2005, it is not clear whose is the greater presence. Asked by Polish television on Monday night about security at the event, a government official said there was a “pact with Holy Father John Paul II” to protect it.
Although Krakow is full of flags and outdoor stages, the Polish church itself is not so lighthearted. Catholicism is Poland’s dominant religion, and the church’s political ally, the nationalist Law and Justice party (PiS), has been running the country since November. Whereas Francis has suggested that perhaps gay people are not all wicked, PiS’s leaders insist that sexual deviation…