Clandestino in the 12th: “the Best Revelation of Our (6-week) Stay,” Said My Fine Food Finder Friend, with Yet Another Japanese Chef.

By Johntalbott


7.2 Clandestino, 8 Rue Crozatier in the 12th, 09.80.68.08.08, Closed Sunday and Monday, (Metro: Reuilly-Diderot) was a place on my “list” that I chose solely because it was close to the Gare de Lyon, where I was taking a train to Geneva from, on a dreaded Saturday.

We walked by it and one of us four on a cane said something resembling a curse-word, because there was nothing at #8 but L'Etoile Rouge, which clearly Clandestino was not.  I knew it was an ephemeral resto but gone already?

(Get to the point Grand-dad.)  So I went into L'Etoile and the nice lady said "next door," "Next door," I said "it's an old Yakitori place," "Trust me" she said, so I did. And we entered.

The menu is 2-2-2 but 22.20 E (on a Saturday mind you) but nice offerings.

All four of us had the bonito tuna with blackberries, sliced Japanese radishes, and a rich red spicy sauce that the two chefs, one Japanese, the other French, explained was chopped, pureed, cooked, etc with lime and piment but looked all the world like a pomegranate sauce.  It was really, really good and I cannot imagine the Japanese pumpkin soup alternative choice with an egg could have been better, but we’ll never know. 

At some point the French lady we were with asked the French waiter what the French-Japanese-Korean tableau on the wall was and we learned that the last owner of this previously Japanese joint was run by a Korean woman.  Cool.

For mains two of us chose the lamb, which my pal, knowing my inability to tolerate mutton, warned me off of, but no need, it was succulent baby lamb with potatoes; and two of us had the salmon-colored trout, sautéed and skin-crisped with an intriguing sautéed pistachio bit topping and broccoli that was al dente but had been marinated in a secret concoction that made it/them irresistible.


Finally, most of us had chocolate mousse described as “light,” which it surely was as well as really being a mocha mousse.  The odd man out had a baked apple with ice cream; boring eh, not at all.


Our bill, with great bread, no bottled water and two bottles of Central Valley (Calif, USA) Cycles Gladiator Syrah and 4 coffees was 152 E, thus 76 E a couple. 

Go?  I’d agree with my friend of 51 years; it was a hellova meal for a hellova price and definitely on Colette’s schedule next month.  But, but, but, Sunday's JDD femina again insists this is a limited time engagement and it will end.  Domage eh?