Laura Waite, founder of Calder, started her company aiming to become a go-to for timeless pieces. Her brand offers a handful variety of two of the hottest items of the past seasons; well-fitted blazers and bespoke leather pants – the latter in collaboration with renowned stylist Helena Boxer. Sourcing exclusively highest-quality materials – sumptuous wools, cashmeres, soft suede and kid leathers – Calder silhouettes are an original merge of British heritage and fashionable metropolitan living. We caught up with Laura to discuss the insights of her brand and current fashions.
What is your background and how did you decide to focus on jackets?
I wanted to create a brand that specialized in one product, and build a reputation for itself as superior quality in that field. Blazers were the obvious choice for me as they are timeless, classic wardrobe staples that can be worn from season to season. Calder is my mother’s maiden name, and the inspiration for the brand comes from her Scottish heritage. I still produce tweed from Islay, a remote island in the Hebrides that I fell in love with whilst visiting family there.
How much do modern styles and shapes affect you?
Despite focusing on traditional tailoring, it is important to stay trend-focused. I enjoy the challenge of incorporating traditional fabrics with modern styles.
Tell us a few words on your most recent collaboration with Holland & Holland.
Famous as gunmakers, Holland & Holland are expanding their clothing side of the business at a time where heritage brands are so prominent in the fashion world. Whilst still creating practical shooting wear, their designs can now also very much be worn on the streets of London. I have collaborated with them on their ladies tweed in order to help urbanize the brand, while remaining true to their luxury British heritage.
You also offer bespoke leather pants. Why pants and why leather in particular?
Leather trousers are another item that are difficult to buy off the shelf, so it was a natural progression to offer my clients the opportunity to custom design their own pair to their measurements; they compliment the jackets perfectly. I love sourcing leather in new and unusual colors.
What is the best way to style your jackets?
The brilliance of classic tailoring is that you can wear it from day to night. I pair mine with jeans for a country weekend or with a white t-shirt and leathers for night.
What are the main features a blazer we will always go back to should have?
The fit is the most important thing and what makes it our go-to staple piece. A smart jacket can completely change an outfit. The quality of the fabric and finishes are also very important – durability, comfort and style are key.
Along with a tailored blazer and a fine pair of leather pants, what are the key pieces a woman should have in her wardrobe?
I have been accused of monotony when it comes to my style but, as a good friend said to me, “if it ain’t broke, do not fix it!” A good pair of Russell and Bromley Chelsea boots, jeans – my favorites are J Brand – and a cashmere scarf.
Have you thought designing for men?
I actually started out with menswear and I love the wide range of fabrics available to men but, for the time being, I continue to offer bespoke whilst we create brand awareness for the women’s collection. I have taken a lot of inspiration from men’s tailoring, fabrics with pinstripes and double breasted jackets the new collection.
How would you like your brand to grow in the future?
There is an exciting new collaboration in the pipeline and I also plan to take part in London Fashion Week for the first time. At the moment, it is about creating beautiful pieces for our customers and raising awareness as a luxury tailoring brand.
www.calderlondon.com
Images © Calder London
Featured image: Calder x Holland & Holland collaboration
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