As much as I enjoy classic brogues, I only own two pairs of wingtips: Edward Green’s Inverness, made from a lightly antiqued chestnut calf, and Ralph Lauren’s Marlows, made from a dark brown shell cordovan. The first is only wearable with lightweight clothes in the spring and summer months, while the second is better with heavier, country clothes in the fall and winter. I own none in dark brown calf, which, being a more versatile color and material, would allow me to have at least two wingtip options throughout the year.
So I’ve been wanting to get a new pair, but feel a bit ambivalent about most models. My eyes are more drawn towards the elegant, curved “v-shape” designs from Saint Crispin’s, Edward Green, and Vass.
Like with all of Saint Crispin’s shoes, their modified longwing brogue doesn’t have a name, but a number. Here, it’s simply called the 105. Along with the 315, the 105 was one of the company’s first models. It came out in 1996, four years after the company’s founding, and was designed by Saint Crispin’s original proprietor, Michael Rollig. Michael has gone on to do Zonkey Boot, but the shoe he designed for Saint Crispin’s seventeen years ago continues to be one of the company’s best sellers.
Edward Green’s version is called the Brummell (after the famous Regency dandy, of course). It came out in 2010 as a way to mark the company’s 120th anniversary. The diamond shaped medallion you see is drawn from Edward Green’s 1930s archive. A uniquely shaped punch for a uniquely designed shoe. I don’t see the model listed in Edward Green’s latest catalog, but I imagine it should be available for special orders. The biggest upside to Edward Green is that I think they have one of the best looking dark brown calfs on the market.
Finally, there’s Vass’ Old English II. Theirs perhaps looks less sleek, but this could be an advantage depending on what else one plans to wear. It also comes in at half the price of the other options, which is attractive.
I’m undecided at the moment on which model I like best, but will have to choose soon. I’d like to have a pair of dark brown, calf leather, v-shaped brogues.
(Photos via Ethan Newton, Leffot, and StyleForum)