9diDANTE comes to life as a modern liquid version of the poem (Comedìa). To us, Vermouth is a power struggle between Wormwood and all the other botanicals, told in a language that everyone can understand … wine! -- Alex Ouziel
Vermouth has been a popular topic within our community particularly after receiving samples of the Dante inspired
9diDANTE. The brand was created by Alex Ouziel in collaboration with Mario Baralis (ex-Carpano -- the father distillery of Italian vermouth). Their vermouth is produced at the historic Dr. M. Montanaro Distillery (1885) in Piedmont and they are one of a few producers in the Turin region to use 100% DOC Piedmontese wines, made entirely from native grapes -- Dolcetto/Cortese for the red Inferno and Arneis for the extra dry Purgatorio. Each vermouth contains 27 botanicals with the major contributors aligning to Dante's classical interpretation of the nine levels within each of the three
cantiche – Inferno (Hell), Purgatorio (Purgatory), and Paradiso (Paradise)*. Thus three cantiche multiplied by nine levels = 27 botanicals.
The vermouth is produced within the
Vermouth di Torino Superiore IGP - a classification created in 2019 to guarantee the quality of its origin and process. According to the Consortium, "World-renowned for the tradition and historicity of its production, Vermouth di Torino is an aromatized wine born in the 18th century at the foot of the Alps and enjoyed at the court of the Savoy kings. Vermouth di Torino is known worldwide for the tradition and history of production. The fame of Vermouth di Torino PGI is inextricably linked to Piedmont producers and Turin. In the 1800s, Turin was home to the aristocracy of vermouth makers, thanks to whom, in different ways and to different degrees, Vermouth di Torino achieved international standing and became appreciated worldwide. Over the years, techniques and processes have evolved: new ideas went hand in hand with the older practices, and they continue to coexist today, preserving and valorizing Vermouth di Torino's traditional production. Vermouth di Torino is classified according to the color (White, Amber, Rosé or Red) and the amount of sugar used in its preparation".
As one of only a few Vermouths crafted and bottled under the Superiore classification, 9diDANTE goes well beyond the consortium's regulations. Whereas a Superiore vermouth must use at least 50% Piedmont wines, 9diDANTE uses 100%. Whereas Superiore vermouth must be produced and packaged locally, 9diDANTE sources the actual packaging locally. And whereas Superiore vermouth must be at least 75% wine content, 9diDANTE has 84% wine content.
The
Inferno Rosso Vermouth di Torino Superiore IGP ($32) blend of Dolcetto and Cortese contrasts with most other red vermouths in that the red Dolcetto provides coloring whereas most vermouths color using caramel. In the 9diDANTE Circles of Hell,
Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) resides in
Limbo - home to the unbaptized and virtuous pagans such as Hippocrates and Aristotle. Cardamon appears as Lust, Bitter Orange Peel as Glutony, Cumin as Greed, Basil as Anger, Nettle as Heresy, Tansy as Violence, Fennel as Fraud, and poor Caraway as the lowest and coldest level of hell -- Treachery. I enjoyed the Inferno chilled - basically neat - loads of complex herbaceous and citrus flavors. I can envision using in a Negroni - but save that for an inferior vermouth.
The
Purgatorio Extra Dry Vermouth di Torino Superiore IGP ($35) is comprised of 100% Arneis -- a noble Piedmont grape rescued from the verge of extinction in the 1960s and thanks to the efforts of one winemaker: the late Alfredo Currado of
Vietti. And this is the very first vermouth to be blended exclusively from 100% Arneis DOC wine. This vermouth also contains 27 botanicals. In the 9diDANTE steps to Peter's Gate and Levels of Purgatory, souls move upwards to be purified of sins in order to enter the heavenly kingdom. Woodruff as Stubborness and Thyme as Repentance are cleansed before passing through Peter's Gate. Sage as Pride begins the lowest level of Purgatory, and moving upwards, Mint as Envy,
Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) as Wrath, Melissa as Sloth, Lemon Peel as Avarice, Bitter Orange Peel as Gluttony, and Coridander as Lust. I'm not a Martini fan, which is the recommended cocktail, but I did imbibe the Purgatorio over ice with a twist of lime and orange. The pear notes of the Arneis are not lost in translation.
* For those who would like to learn about the epic poem I recommend the Hillsdale College course or the Word On Fire seminar.