No trip to Venice is complete without visiting the nearby islands where Venetian glass and lace are made. I wrote about Burano and its lace last week. Today I’d like to tell you more about Murano, the glass island.
Most first-time tourists start their time in Venice around its famous Saint Mark’s Square. If they have a bit more time they might squeeze in a brief tour of the other nearby islands. The most popular is a half-day trip to Murano, where they can watch a glassmaking demonstration and maybe buy a glass souvenir or two. But the more intrepid visitors, with more time and curiosity, will skip that and spend a day or two here, exploring back streets and staying on the lookout for what else the island has to offer.
Or perhaps, to be more precise, I should say islands. Murano is actually a collection of 7 islands linked together by bridges.
The next morning we walked straight to St. Mark’s Square and took vaporetto line 42 over to Murano. Unlike the previous day, it was cloudy and cool. The minute we stepped off the boat we discovered a different world: a quieter, more laid-back island with its own Grand Canal and (of course) fascinating shops and sidewalk cafes.
Murano has been occupied since Roman times and its centuries of varying architectural styles vie for attention. Unfortunately, we had to be back on the ship by mid-afternoon and had only a few hours on the island. I came up with a few of the top things to see. We couldn’t see them all, but here’s the list. Maybe you’ll have more time and can do more than we could.
7 things to see on Murano island.
1. Glass factories
Many of these fornaci offer demonstrations and have a shop for visitors. We didn’t visit because we were told that the best factories prefer to focus on their craft, rather than on tourism. Anyway, I enjoy watching glass blowers so much that I have been known to lose track of time. Better not to start….
2. Glass museum
If you’re interested in the art of glass making, Museo del Vetro is for you. This is a history museum that showcases Venetian glass techniques over the centuries, and displays varieties of glass from as far back as Egyptian times. (It’s undergoing renovation until late 2014; they’re discounting ticket prices to compensate for it.)
3. Basilica of Saint Mary and Saint Donatus
The Basilica dei Santa Maria e San Donato is known for its 12th century Byzantine mosaics, both on its floor and in its dome. Its floor is similar to Venice’s Basilica di San Marco. While most churches are known for the saint’s bones they have, they claim that this basilica houses the bones of the dragon slain by Saint Donatus. The bell tower, like most bell towers, is separate from the Church.
Photo from Churches of Venice website http://www.churchesofvenice.co.uk
4. The Church of Saint Peter the Martyr
Chiesa di San Pietro Martire was built in 1506. It houses the chapel of the Ballarin family and art works by Bellini.
5. Campo Santo Stefano
One of the most visited spots on the island, Campo Santo Stefano is well-known for the abstract blue glass starburst sculpture in the middle of the square. Next to it are the Church of St. Stephen and its 19th Century clock tower.
6. Palazzo Da Mula
This was a luxurious summer residence of the Venetian patricians. The ornate facade features large Gothic windows and it’s absolutely gorgeous. Veneto-Byzantine patere and panels from the 12th and 13th centuries.
By Unofeld781 (Own work) [CC-BY-SA-3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons
7. Murano glass shops
Murano is known for its glass worldwide. Besides that, there is not much else worth buying – unless you’re in the market for postcards and other tourist souvenirs.
Because so many souvenir shops try to pass off cheap Chinese counterfeits as real Murano glass, real Murano glass is now protected with a trademark. Look for the “Vetro Murano Artistico” trademark decal in the windows of shops and showrooms that sell authentic Murano glass.
Tip: Beware of the scams offering to take you on a free boat ride to see the glassworks at Murano or the lace in Burano. You’ll pay for your “free” ride with the grossly overpriced shops you’re escorted to, and may find yourself obligated to pay more than you thought you’d agreed to. Never sign a contract that’s not in English, and use a healthy dose of skepticism if anyone offers to “translate” it for you.
One other thing
I know I said there are 7 “must-see” things, but there’s a “must-do” thing as well: Savor every moment. Don’t rush from place to place, for instance, and miss seeing all those unique details in the buildings you’re passing.
Take a bit of time to just sit and watch life go by: mothers with crying children, teens with cell phones in their ears, old ladies hand-in-hand with their beloved husbands. Sip a glass of the local wine and enjoy the waiter’s foreign chatter, just because you can. It’s all part of the travel experience.
The most precious thing about travel is the opportunity to enjoy a different way of life. This is your trip, your opportunity. Seize it.
http://youtu.be/H2SlS_MRRL4
We’ve created this video of Murano for you to enjoy. If you do, please share it with your friends.
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