52 Faubourg St Denis in the 10th: Astonishing Food from a "neighborhood Cantine."

By Johntalbott

52 Faubourg St Denis in the 10th impressed me most today by its ability to serve exciting, different forms of food in unusual ways.

The firsts we shared were a tartare of oysters and scallops in a warm mushroom sauce and sauteed chicken livers with a sweet potato puree and balsamic, pistachio, tagine sauce covered with a wafer.

Those were interesting enough but our mains were outside the envelope; coq au vin and rabbit - no big deal, eh?  Non.  Big deal.  Both deconstucted; the chicken came as a rollatine with confited potatoes, mushrooms, bacon and a garlic/parsley sauce; the rabbit with a really really good risotto, cuttlefish-chorizo and rosemary .

Desserts were also different and deconstructed; a clafoutis of pear and ginger, allsprice and sesame ice cream and chocolate, clementines and confited kumquat.

Our bill with 2 bottles of wine, one of filtered fizzy and 4 coffees, was 188.70, this 94.35 E a couple.