Monday-Tuesday, Philippe Toinard, in A Nous Paris, reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to Encore, 43, rue Richer in the 9th, 01.72.60.97.72, closed Saturday noon and Sundays, chef’d by Yoshi Morie, ex of the Petit Verdot, with formulas at lunch costing 25 and 30 and dinner 40 E for items such as echine de cochon and peach compote; while Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 4/5 dots to the bistro La Bruyer, 31, rue La Bruyere in the 9th, 09.81.22.20.56, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with lunch menus at 18 and 21 and dinner for 28 and 35 E for items such as crab with shiso, confited shoulder of lamb and a fruit “soup.”
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous also reviewed Encore, coordinates given above.
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin resumed his weekly reviews of 5 new restaurants: giving 2 hearts each to Pollop, 15 rue d’Aboukir in the 2nd, 01.40.41.00.94, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Mondays, menus at 16 and 19 at lunch and 26 and 31 E at dinner for items such as duck in a seafood bouillon, tartare of Thai beef and rice pudding and Vraymonde, in the Hotel Budda-Bar, 4, rue d’Anjou in the 8th, open 7/7, where the ex-chef at Petrossian, Rougui Dia provides items such as tabouli, turbot and a baba for 50-70 E. He also give 1 heart each to La Cevicheria in the 2nd and Postiche in the 1st as well as a busted heart to the team that took over Le Pre Verre in the 5th.
Figaroscope’s Dossier by Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio and Hugo de Saint Phalle was concerned with lobster at:
Frenchie To Go
The Oyster Bar de Dessirier
Lobster Bar
Café Francais
The Fish Club
Jeanne B.
Monsieur Bleu
Miss Ko
Valois 1868
Le Grand Pan
And Francois Simon for his Hache Menu went to Le Saut du Loup, now managed by Marc Meneau, of Vezelay fame, where for 150/2 E he had a green bean salad, badly cooked cod and a millefeuille. Go? Not only no, he wants his money back.
Figaroscope had one more article on restaurant openings that mentioned:
Grille’s de luxe kebabs
Professore, a trattoria
L’Ourcine’s reopening
Sunken Chip’s real fish & chips
Frenchy’s Bistro (by Gilles Epie not Gregory Marchand) at Charles de Gaulle
Le Meurice welcoming Alain Ducasse
Terroir Parisien (2) by Yannick Alleno
Allard’s resuscitation by Ducasse
Lazare’s opening by Eric Frechon
Saturday, Francois Simon in Croque-Notes in Le Figaro blasts the service, food and prices at Vagenende but praises the nearby Grom’s ice cream; Stephane Durand-Souffland wrote up three guinguettes – Chez Gegene, La Goulue & Le Pavillon Bleu; and Colette Monsat had a brief piece on the gluren-free/vegetarian trends in France.
