Monday-Tuesday, Jerome Berger in A Nous Paris, reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to Roca (run by the cousin of the owner of L’Office), 31, rue Guillaume Tell in the 17th, 01.47.64.86.04, closed weekends, with a lunch menu at 19 and a la carte 35 E for items such as an egg with corn sauce, dried beef, duck, girolles and a fig tart; and Jerome Berger gave 1/5 to Nano (run by the artist/designer Ora-ito), 14, rue Bachaumont in the 2nd, 01.40.26.35.10, closed weekends which serves everything in glasses (for 2.50-3.50 E) – he proports to have had a catastrophic lunch.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Alexandra Michot the newest Japanese chef-run French restaurant, Les Enfants Rouges, 9, rue de Beauce in the 3rd, 01.48.87.80.61, closed Tuesdays, costing between 26-51 at weekday lunch but only 35 E for a menu-carte on weekends and in the evening for chicken bouillon, braised veal, cheese and a Baba.
In Wednesday’s Figaroscope, Emmanual Rubin awarded 3 hearts to Michel Troisgros’s Table du Lancaster, 7, rue de Berri in the 8th, 01.40.76.40.76, closed Saturday lunch which on a 45 lunch menu, 135 menu and 130 E a la carte serves up langoustines, sole and a Chartreux soufflé. Garnering 2 hearts were two places: the aforementioned Cantine de La Cigale, 124 Blvd de Rochechouart in the 18th, 01.55.79.10.10, closed Sundays, which from 25-40 E serves oeufs mayo, stuffed razor clams and Ospital’s white ham; and Le Lulli at the Grand Hotel du Palais Royal, 4 rue de Valois in the 1st, 01.42.96.15.35, closed weekends, serving only lunch for 40-50 E, menus 35 and 42 E, with potato gnocchi, chicken and profiteroles. One heart went to the French/North American hamburger type Big Fernand Montorgueil in the 2nd and a busted heart to Monsieur Baba.
The Dossier this week by Alice Bosio, Colette Monsat and Hugo de Saint Phalle dealt with bistrots they think you may have passed up but which are very good:
Aux Duex Amis
Le Baratin
Chez Nenesse
Bones
Au Passage
Autour d’un verre
L’Essentiel
Au Rendez-Vous des Chauffeurs
Clandestino
And Francois Simon devoted his Hache Menu to Alain Milliat – really good? Not at all.
Thursday in L’Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed the Japanese Okuda in the 8th; Charles Patin O'Coohoon covered La Cantine de la Cigale and Marie-Amal Bizalion reviewed the Château La Coste, in Puy-Sainte-Réparade. In addition Ulla Majoube wrote an article on food trucks in Paris.
