Destinations Magazine

Reviews of Reviews: The Week of May 14th, 2012

By Johntalbott

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Bigarrade, old address in the 17th, where a new Japanese chef from Le Bistral has taken oveer the piano from Christophe Pelé and serves much the same food; for 35 or 55 E at lunch one gets an amuse bouche, an entrée, two fish, three entrements and a dessert (dinner menus are 65 and 85 E; dishes such as shrimp tempura, sautéed foie gras, barbue, seche and a chocolate tart.   Meanwhile, Philippe Toinard gave the same 3/5 dots to Louloucam, details given before, in the 10th.

Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous reviewed the cellar jazz club/fumoir/bar/resto run by the guy from Les Fines Gueules with a Japanese chef in the old Atelier Berger space at 49, rue Berger in the 1st,, open 7/7, serving everything from veal carpaccio to lobster raviolis, turbot to sabayon for 47-70 E.

On Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed and gave two hearts each to two places: first, the aforementioned Bigarrade but with entirely different choices (as is their practice), and well as Les Rillettes, 33, rue Navarin in the 9th,, closed Sundays, with comprehensive formulas at 12.50 and 15 E for lunch and 26, 31 and 36 E at dinner for items such as herring, quenelle de brochet and a vacherin with strawberries.  Then he rated three places worthy of 1 heart: La Librairie, 2, rue Duban in the 16th,, closed Saturday lunch and  Sunday dinner (brunch Sunday noon), running one 35-45 E for a foie gras terrine and mackerel and a cote de veau; La Favorite, 4, rue de Rivoli in the 1st,, open 7/7, with pricy items such as a 17 E club sandwich as well as Caesar salad and veal Milanese; and the Italian Enzo & Familia in the 1st.

In the Dossier this week, Hugo de Saint Phalle, Alice Bosio, and Colette Monsat wrote about the where to get the raw stuff:
Gaya Rive Gauche
Les Jalles
Le Cornichon
Pinxo St-Germain
La Pulperia
Le Verre Vole
Bar Le Passage

And Francois Simon, the card, went to Fouquet’s – his Hache Menu is subtitled “ohé, ohé capitaine abandonné” where he indicates a meal for two ran 304 E for their tartare, bar de ligne and heavy/lifeless desserts and as for going, like Pigalle, one must go once before the age of 50.
This week in l’Express, Marie-Amal Bizalion and Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed 5 bistrots on the Cote d’Azur: in Nice, the Table de Trois, Le Bistrot gourmand, La Petite Syrah, in Le Cannot, the Bistrot Saint-Saveur, in Cannes, La Table du chef.

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