Reviews of Reviews: The Week of January 27th, 2014

By Johntalbott

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 2/5 dots to the well-known Ferme Saint-Simon in the 7th, 01.45.48.35.74, open 7/7, which has a new team and new décor and is chef’d by the ex-Clandestino Marcelo Joulia who for 29 & 35 E menus (70 E a la carte) serves things like minced scallops, pigeon and a sort of tarte tatin.  In addition he mentions the aforementioned “wrap” place L’Aveyon de Caluc and Philippe Toinard mentions the aforementioned Japanese Peco Peco in the 9th

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous reviewed Clint (Eastwood), 174, rue de la Roquette in the 11th, 01.44.64.07.36, open 7/7 8h30-23h, running one 16-35 E for items such as butternut soup, trout, cheesecake and all sorts of beers and coffees (and tee shirts of Clint.)

Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed and gave 2/4 hearts to two places: Victor, 14, rue Victor-Masse in the 9th, 09.84.07.60.22, closed Sundays with menus at 15.50 & 18.50 at lunch and 28 and 32 E at night, serving items like leeks vinaigrette, cote de boeuf and lemon tart and Eclectic, 2, rue Linois in the 15th, 01.77.36.70.00 open 7/7 8h til midnight, costing 50-80 E for items such as boutargue and radishes, grilled turbot and a Pavlova.  Garnering one heart each were Brut, Poulette and Yuman.

There were really two dossiers: the first by Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio and Hugo de Saint Phalle covered the numerous new branche places in the 10th: Tuck Shop, Bob’s Juice, Holybelly, Jules & Shim, Sol Semilla, Piccoli Cugini, L’Agence, Sunken Chip, La Taverne de Zhao, Le Petit Matieu and not forgetting Café Craft.

The second dossier by Colette Monsat discussed “hot” places, that is restaurants using fire: L’Atelier Maitre Albert, Le Flamboire, Le Chalet des Iles, Saravanaa Bhavan, Coq Rico, Hotel Murano & the Mini Palais.

And Francois Simon went to Le Stella in the 16th, where one spends a minimum of 50 E (without wine) but he says to go.

Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the aforementioned Cercle Rouge which sounded just like my great meal there.

Saturday-Sunday in Le Figaro, Lena Lutaud wrote a piece on (among other things) gourmet food in movie houses mentioning the new MK2 in the Palais de Tokyo and Anne-Sophie Pic’s place 2 steps from her restaurant in Valence.

Sunday in the JDD, Aurelie Chaigneau gave a 6/10 to the NYC burgers in Paris place called PNY in the 10th; 6.5 to the Japanese Tsubame in the 9th and 7 to her revisit to the Laiterie Ste Clotilde in the 7th.  Her colleague Francois Lemaire in femina, reviewed Caillebotte in the 9th.