Destinations Magazine

Pirouette in the 1st Forces Me to Break My Pledge to Never Say "best."

By Johntalbott

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Backstory: As loyal readers know, I have taken the "pledge", no, not that one about sex before marriage or no alcohol but to avoid ever naming any anything food/restaurant/bistro related the "best."  But today I must break my pledge because our meal at Pirouette was special, inventive, mind and palate expanding and fun.

Pirouette, 5, rue Mondetour in the 1st has surely the most wonderfully welcoming owners, staff and chef on the planet.  And it's not because they know who I am, they were always nice.  The 3-course meal for 40 E that Chef Tommy Gousset constantly changes is a bargain and a half, no wonder from a graduate of le Meurice, Taillevent and Daniel (Boulud).  Our group of four couldn't decide what to have.

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Two of us had what was called bio trout with citron, hazelnuts and confited onions but was really a work of art that could be housed in a hip gallery and the others had squid slices, egg yolks, lomo and a parmesan soup surround that I would have been happy to die after eating.

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Then our two friends both had the lieu jaune with celery, apple and coques, Colette had the Dandieu duck with asparagus, kumquat halves and pork ball and I had what our genial (English-speaking, no less,) host said was a perfect symphony or something like that - of ris de veau - and it was truly divine, but wait -

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like in the Threepenny Opera, Victoria's messenger comes riding in with a bowl of incredible veal cheeks and black garlic - oh my!  Now I truly was in heaven.

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Well I'd like to break the spell by saying the desserts were not up to the previous dishes but a lie detector would out me quickly - they were fabulous;  a slice of

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