Destinations Magazine

Le Verre Moutarde in the 17th: New Chef, New Dishes, Former Front-guys, Former Ambiance.

By Johntalbott

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Le Verre Moutarde in the 17th is a place I've been to maybe 3-4 times before, since it opened about a year ago and Colette and I have been impressed by the hosts - Christophe Ledoux (ex-Pre Verre) & Mathieu Desmoulins, the cooking - by a Colombien chef and the terrific Amora mustard ambiance - so buzzy they keep turning people without reservations away.  So it seemed a logical place to go with two dear friends, one a fellow-blooger, who had never been - and there was our table clearly marked in chalk.  The menu and carte did seem different, however, but in a good way - so away we went.

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Colette started off with a very pleasant and flavorful caviar d'aubergines with coriander and we three boys had the tartines with marrow and escargots which my fellow blogger declared cried out for mustard, which being in a place where mustard was the theme, he had no trouble procuring.

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Colette, of course, had the tuna with veggies (neither pictured) and a tomato and seaweed salsa with vinegar and lemon pulp, JJ had a vegetarian dish and my blooger-pal and I had cotes of veal that were by his lights too salted and too cooked for me (but actually I enjoyed both the level of salt and cooking.)

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Colette and JJ had a huge slice of tasty nougat glacé with a tuile and caramel beurre salé and I had a wonderful creme bruleé with bits of rose praline on top which my blogger-buddy thought were over the top but I thought were "top-top."

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Our bill was most reasonable considering, considering the fact they poured us 4 glasses of wine to start and 3 digestifs to finish and we had about two bottles between - 219 E, thus 109.50 E a couple.

Coda: As I was exiting the toilettes, I was introduced to the "new" chef Olivier Ferrel- 6-7 months new and I must say while not all of his offerings hit the bell, most did.

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