Destinations Magazine

Juste Le Zinc in the 8th: One More Affordable, Terrific Bistro, This up Near Clichy.

By Johntalbott

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6.75 Juste Le Zinc, 25, rue de Turin in the 8th, (Metro: Clichy) 01.43.87.44.84, closed Sundays, has been open 15 days and already is packed.  I went on a self-assigned search for a coq au vin that would reach the heights that Julia Child's or that at the old Chez René (25 years ago) achieved.  "Desolé, Monsieur, c'est vendredi" which means - fish fish fish.  Heart broken, we order the next best.

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I look at carte and see ours-inade (bear's claw in mud, huh? but I've been searching all over for such ever since I read the recipe in Escoffier.)  My friend, the French scholar from Berkeley, says as gently as he can to me "John, I think it's oursin soup as in sea-urchin."  Ah.  And it was, and it was terrific.  My carpaccio of daurade was good product but ruined by too many salt crystals.  OK, onward.

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Then he ordered (at my insistence) the charlotte of milk-fed lamb which came out looking like a poached pear, but no, wait, those were pimento pieces that had been in the mold - lovely looking and lovely tasting.  And I had a special of the days - a fricassee of duck hearts on a lovely, no, I take that back, fantastic, puree.  Top-top, product and cooking.

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We finished by splitting a Baba au rhum, with rum a volonté; quite nice, indeed.

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With a fine bottle of Chiroubles, no bottled water, good bread, one OK coffee and over-the-top candied ginger slices, the bill comes to 86.50 E.

Go?  Join me the 3rd of March when we return for coq au vin (I hope.)


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