8.4 Restaurant David Toutain, 29, rue Surcouf in the 7th, 01.45.50.11.10, (Buses: 28 and 80), closed weekends, opened Monday (that is, 5 days ago) and already is hopping - chock-a-block full, noisy (85.7 dB) and full of energy and warmth from the chef on down. Y'all know the chef, David Toutain, if not from L’Arpege, then from his time with the black-hatted Marc Veyrat or at the wonderful Mugaritz in Spain or even more recently at Agapé Substance. When I ate at the last, I gave it an 8.0/10 and thought it was one of the best of 2011. Well, things have gotten more even and mo-bettah. But to that later.
The "menus" are 68 (117 pared with wines) and 98 (158 E with wines) - pricy for a young chef but cheap for the American visitors in the 7th and students at the U. a few doors away. It's a forced-choice deal, so sit back and like at Spring, enjoy! It's a trip - 14 or maybe 15 courses, and that's for the less expensive menu, Lord knows how many are on the degustatation one. Rather than describe each let me throw them out -
