I wasn't playing any games upon my return to Xiamen, China! I had those private tours booked well in advance! Simply exclusive, my China Highlights tour guide Adam had a plan! Swerving the coachloads of tourists was a mood without a doubt, I had not paid my coins to be surrounded by people and tourist tack! I had made the right connection! Nanjing Cluster, who? Who's she?!
Wanting a good thing, my Tulou Cluster was about to impress me much with history and views served in abundance! The lengthy drive out of Xiamen City saw the landscape change massively, from sweeping oceans views to countryside mountains for days, I wasn't mad! Adam told the driver where to drive and after much conversation we arrived at Fujian Province's own Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster a little before lunch time. No, I didn't mind the mix up, sure getting to see the lesser known Tulou had me feeling boasty! Those open wide circular settlements served the 'Fujian' that I had never realised existed! Being back in China after such a long time really has had me upping my tourist traveler game, no crumbs! Kids were running around in that first Tulou but the best would be saved for later. Adam had said that many working people don't live in the Tulou Clusters all the time, life returns with the arrival of the Chinese New Year holidays each year. Sure, I had to take a deep breath and keep my eyes on that Tulou surprise!
Chickens were running around and if you know me, you'll know that the only chicken I like is the one on my plate! I had to get on with catching those Chinese views rather than worrying about those feather beings. Rude! Transported back to another world, I loved learning about the long history attached to the Tulou buildings. I was afforded the chance to walk into several Tulou Clusters without any issue, the current residents were quite chilled with me and other visitors taking photos. I was able to capture a real sense of community because none of the rooms inside the Tulou acted as tourist gift shops, word on the street was that Nanjing Tulou Cluster was bursting to the seems with tourist tack! I appreciated that diversion, my return to Fujian Province had been turned up and then some! I didn't take many photos inside of the Tulou buildings because I was busy enough catching those village life views. Sure, the Disney's live action 'Mulan' had been filmed at Tianluokeng! I wanted to see that Disney filming location!
Tulou tobacco fields Tianluokeng better don't! She did! Wait a minute because I have a few things to throwback before those fields of smokable green! The feelings those Tulou Clusters were giving me were very much 'Living Museum Realness' because the circular buildings stood with their original features intact, a certain help had been administered but not that much! Adam went on to tell me that the way these Tulou buildings had been built to last, acting as a fort like situation for those who lived in the Tulou's in the past and the present. Faraway from the city of Xiamen, those previous hotel woes felt like a million miles away, nothing else mattered other than the beauty of Tianluokeng! Modernisation had crept its way into the immediate area but with minimal impact on the view, those additions served as a way of revenue for the local people. A hotel, restaurant, post office and general store allowed a certain slice of life to carry on at the Tulou. Fields of a certain green? Calm down because that's up next! Easy!
Yes, a whole tobacco field lay ahead of me! I was told that during the summertime the tobacco leaves are harvested and left to dry before they can be sold to those who's craft is to make cigarettes. I found it incredibly interesting to see such a crop being cultivated in the middle of the Cluster of Tulou buildings. Adam went on to tell me that the ground they use for the tobacco crops also doubles up as a space to grow rice. Now, I don't smoke but it did get me wondering about other destinations in the world that make tobacco their tourism attraction! Getting things on track, the area around the tobacco field gave me a perfect view of the said Tulou that had been used to film just one scene in the live action version of Disney's Mulan, why hadn't tourism kicked within that Cluster? Why? I was not mad because the crowds did not litter my view of that lush green tobacco field with a Tulou or two in sight. Getting on with things, the morning had been fruitfully fantastic, more like Tolou-tastic! Time for lunch? Get that chicken ready, T!
As lunchtime approached I found myself inside a rather lively Tulou Cluster with something brewing in view. What looked like a makeshift distillery was actually that indeed, I wasn't wrong! Asking Adam for a shot of that alcoholic looking liquid with the quickness, I wanted to try some! That I was able to do, one of those brewing people offered me a cheeky shot of rice wine, in its fresh state it tasted nice if a little sweet. I liked the taste of that liquor that much I bought three bottles for delivery, in China pretty much anything from anywhere in the country can be couriered domestically! With ease on my side I had every confidence that those bottles would be delivered in just a few days, sure they were with the quickness like I said! Those people were really friendly, they invited me to drink another shot of wine with lunch as an offering but we had plans. It was great to experience such hospitality, it would seem that kindness cost nothing? Yes! Lunch, really? I was getting mighty hungry! I wanted one of those chickens from the coup!
Yes, the time had come for lunch to be ordered! Myself and Adam headed back towards the main entrance of the Tulou to the small restaurant we had passed at the beginning of that Tianluokeng period of discovery. Ordering a chicken dish, noodle dish and some vegetables was the one, the driver joined myself and Adam but that was just for the food I was sure. The chicken couldn't have tasted any fresher, it had literally just been walking around in the yard living its best life! I will say without one ounce of shame that those chicken feet tasted delicious, veggies and vegans can press click! I loved my locally sourced lunch, the noodle and vegetable dishes were also lovely, I had no complaints! Chinese food really hits different now that I am back in China, having such a lunch felt correct! The morning and early afternoon had been top class, after being away from China for three years it really was such a pleasure to experience such a day out! I wanted to see that mountain Tulou view because that had been the reason for the tour! Exactly!
I had already asked Adam when I would be able to see a panorama of the Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster from the moment we had set off from Xiamen that morning! After lunch we headed back towards the same tobacco field we had clocked, with a swift turn it was over to an open river with a line of stone steps across to the other side. I wasn't bothered about the height during that moment, I had vision of myself falling into the fast moving river, not a mood if you ask me! Serving 'I'll Make A Man Out Out Of You' Realness from the original Disney adaptation of Mulan, you already know that I wanted my own Shang to greet me on the other side! Didn't happen! I do not do heights but with the river crossed I felt like I had to push myself in order to see that showstopping view. I had not seen such a sight since that trip to Xiang Gong Shan in Guilin during 2019! After being separated from China for the longest amount of time, I had no excuse but to make it up to the top of that vantage point! No banister? I lost my last nerve! Yes!
Adam had found me a wooden staff like stick to help me guide myself up those winding ascending stone steps! Because this Tulou was under the radar the government had not maintained the stairs, that was a choice badly made! At the top with my last nerve intact, the view had me gagged! I had my own moment with Fujian's own Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster, I absolutely made that moment last for the longest amount of time! Those magical circular shaped buildings were a whole mood, for that alone I was made up! Yes, it was a real place where people lived and went about their business, words simply fall short to describe such a sight. I knew in my heart that returning to Xiamen had been the best choice, I didn't need an international trip because China's Mainland kept that gem for the me! The walk down wasn't so much a 'walk' because I went down on my bottom, might I add that helped with me, not to mention my lack of balance! I still have to pinch myself that I was able to see the Tulou's in Fujian! Over and out, T!
Tulou She Better Don't!
Desperately Seeking Adventure
