Destinations Magazine

Braisenville in the 9th: Another Wonder I'd Ignored for Too Long.

By Johntalbott

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6.6 Braisenville, 36, Rue Condorcet in the 9th (Metro: Anvers),, closed Sundays, opened about a year ago and went on my "Watch and wait list" due to the warning that it served "Le soir seulement."  But as I've learned, places, as they mature, add lunch - the economics alone force them to.  When the place we were actually headed to was boarded up at 12h30, we schlepped over a few blocks to my "back-up" and had a very fine meal indeed.

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While there are many more choices for dinner, the lunch worked just fine and for 19 E for three dishes, is a bargain and a half.

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My ex-restaurateur/ex-vintner dining partner ordered the bonito with cucumber, yogurt and mint and i chose the duck breasts (for the third time this week they were featured) with microtomed cauliflower and cilantro (aka coriander) and both were exceptional.

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Then she had a Black Angus bavette with an almost raw half-carrot, which allowed its full taste to zing through, and a squash puree, and I had a piece of merlu from St Jean de Luz (that she deemed the best ever) with lemon and (properly) undercooked peas.  Wow!

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Both of us hankered after the (tart) rhubarb with crumble crumbles and strawberry/rhubarb ice, so we did it and were not disappointed.

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With a bottle of an amusingly-named red Rhone, great bread (remember we're eating in a friendly culinary microclimate) and coffee and no bottled water, our bill was an astonishing 66 E.

Go?  You're missing something very special if you don't.

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