One of the nice things about having a bespoke shirtmaker is that you can generally get whatever you want, whenever you want. No more relying on designers each season, hoping they’ll have exactly what you need. Once a shirtmaker has your pattern down, you can just request swatches, choose your details, and then order remotely. I get all my dress shirts made through Ascot Chang, a custom tailoring business out of Hong Kong that offers better prices than most tailors in their league.
The only problem is that bespoke tailors don’t offer many casual shirtings. So while they’re great for the kind of traditional office shirts you might wear with tailored clothing, they can leave you wanting on weekends. Granted, most will have a decent selection of basic linens, wool-cotton blends, and casual plaids, but those feel more like the kind of shirts you’d find at Brooks Brothers than Barney’s.
I’ve been trying to find a solution for a while – a place that will offer me a custom fit, but also a more casual style. I think I’ve found it last year through Proper Cloth, an online made-to-measure shirt company run by a few young guys out of NYC. Full disclosure: they’re an advertiser at Put This On (the main site I write for), but this isn’t a paid post and I don’t get any discount on my orders. I’m just impressed with their work.
At the core of it, Proper Cloth does a good job at nailing the fit. They’re the best online MTM shirtmaker I’ve come across so far, actually, and I’ve tried about seven or eight places. Part of the secret is to work with a company that has a good, standard pattern, since all adjustments are made off a block. Proper Cloth’s pattern fits slim without being constricting, and they’ll adjust for things such as different degrees of shoulder slope, as well as your natural neck position. Should the first shirt not fit perfectly, they offer a free remake. (Mine didn’t fit well at first, but it was great on the second try).
What really sets them apart, however, is their selection of shirtings. Along with your standard dress options from top-end mills such as Albini and Grandi & Rubinelli, they also have an impressive range of casual fabrics – e.g. tonal seersuckers, folk prints, and Japanese indigos. They even do enzyme washing, which is rare for a custom tailoring business. Enzyme washes give shirts a more causal and relaxed look, but since they have to be done in batches, they’re typically only used for ready-to-wear. Proper Cloth organizes group runs every once in a while (like now), which is how they’re able to meet those minimums. As a result, you can get a shirt that has the look of ready-to-wear, but comes in a custom-fit.
Proper Cloth isn’t perfect. Their button-down collar looks better than most options on the market, but I prefer the one I designed with Ascot Chang. And since they’re a made-to-measure shirtmaker, not full bespoke, you’re more limited in terms of what can be customized (e.g. not being able to design your own collar, or account for things such as asymmetrically sloped shoulders). My bespoke shirts fit better, but Proper Cloth’s shirts are a very close second (and cost a bit less).
On balance, Proper Cloth would be good for anyone – either the young professional looking to build a business wardrobe or someone who wants casual shirts in a more custom-fit. So far, I’ve picked up one of the light-washed denim shirts and Japanese slub weaves (both pictured directly above). The first pairs well with tweed sport coats (see John Goldberger for inspiration); the second with linen suits. They’re much more casual than what I could have gotten through Ascot Chang, but come in a better fit than ready-to-wear. It’s the best of both worlds, really.
For first time customers, Proper Cloth also offers $20 off your first order. Just use the checkout code INTRO-INVITE. Orders over $200 also qualify for free shipping.
