Charity Magazine

Meeting Old and New Friends on the Manali Leh Highway

By Spanafrican

There is always something to look forward to when returning. It may be small changes, like roadside flowers that you had never noticed before. There is also something comforting  in that nothing has changed either, in this case, no mountains have been moved! Then there is the anticipation of meeting old friends again and meeting new ones too.

Last year we visited the remote village of Chumikgiarsa at 4000m,  http://bridgetsbikeblog.wordpress.com/2011/12/19/himalayan-villages-chumikgiarsa-at-4000m/ this year I was eager to return to see Tenzin and her then 10mth old daughter Padme and local grand dad Dom Dom Namgyal.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Insect-like Janet, negotiates her way down the Baralacha-la pass to the plains of Sarcchu where Chumikgiarsa village occurs dot-like beneath a crumbling mass of mountain.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Mesmerized by the colours and magnitude, I never tire of this descent.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Our campsite right beside the Highway, about 2km beyond of Sarcchu dhabba village. An 1.5 hr walk from here to Chumikgiarsa.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Prayer flags adorn the bridge crossing the river. The village is around the folded sedimentary rocks to the right.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Everything was as it was when were here last year. Padme’s house surrounded glacier fed wheat and barley fields. I was then disappointed to learn that she wasn’t at home or in the village for that matter.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Showing a photo of Tenzin and Padme to Tsering, she shook her head and pointed back to Sarcchu.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Dom Dom wasn’t at home either.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

And then I spotted him. Way off in the distance a lone figure in the barley fields. “Dom Dom Namgyal”, I called, “Khamzang-in le meme le?’” (how are you grand dad).  Janet managed to take this lovely photo of us meeting dwarfed by the landscape.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

It was a precious moment when I handed him the photographs Caroline and I had taken of him last year. He patted me with delight and laughed in appreciation. “Ma  gyalla, ma gyalla!” (very good, very good) I was almost certain it was the first time he had received a photo of himself.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

I showed him the pictures of Tenzin, he also pointed to Sarchhu

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Shortly Dom Dom’s friend came over to see what all the fuss was about.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Just as before he proudly stood for another photograph, first carefully replacing his hat, patting his hair and making sure his coral and turquoise beads were visible. We will return once more.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Although I have taken so many photos like this, its hard not to appreciate the detail in Ladakhi villages. Here fodder is stored on the rooftop.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Sun baked bricks

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

or the delicate wetland flowers

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

or a cute himalayan kid

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Back in Sarchhu, I was still on a mission to find ama and nome (mother and daughter). We stopped off at this little dhabba owned by Tsering Tsemo also from Chumikgiarsa to ask her if she knew them. Padme was evidently being looked after by a friend at Dolma dhabba just up the road.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

but first of cup of chai.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

and some drawing and games with brothers Tenzin Lashe and Tenzin Namtrel

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Animals from Africa, a combined effort of Stefan and my artistic skills. Colour them in please!

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Thanks Tsering, Tenzin and Tenzin, see you next time!

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

And there she was. Pretty little Padme wearing the same green jersey she was wearing last year.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Looking at herself and her Ama in the pictures.

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

Much to her distress I had to wrestle the photos back before they got all crunched!

Meeting old and new friends on the Manali Leh Highway

And finally I found her delighted Ama-le (Tenzin) who was working at the road worker station with her dad. She nearly cried when she saw the pictures, the time when she kindly invited us into her home for tea in Chumikgiarsa.


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