Destinations Magazine

Louloucam in the 10th: Nice Folks, Nice Food, Nicely-nicely.

By Johntalbott

Apr-may 2012 024

5.0 Louloucam, 264, rue du Faubourg St-Martin in the 10th, 01.40.34.76.87, closed Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays was a natural choice; near my guest's French course, touted by L'Express's Anne-Laure Pham and chef'd by someone, one Jean-Matthieu Frédéric, who'd passed through the kitchens of the Meurice and the Tour d'Argent.

Apr-may 2012 025The 31 E 3-course "menu" looked great; lots of tasty choices.

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My dining partner said she could never pass up foie gras and it was indeed delicious but my pigs' feet in a croustillant crust could have been passed under the hot lamp for a bit.

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Then my new friend had the Bourbonnaise chicken with white sauce and I had (after ensuring it was a thick not thin slice) a piece of veal liver a la Lyonnaise; both were nice, but strangely again, both were lukewarm and came with nicely toasted thin slices of potato.

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Both our desserts were nice - a poached pear covered in beurre sale and a caramelized banana - but again on the lukewarm side.

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Our bill, with a bottle and two glasses of a nice and nicely priced Regnie, no bottled water but two coffees, was 96.40 E.

Go?  You're too young to have seen Stubby Kaye in Guys and Dolls, but he defined the term nice by responding to everything with a "Nicely-Nicely," which became his moniker.  That's my verdict on Louloucam - nice but ahhhhhh, nothing more.


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