Destinations Magazine

Les Canailles in the 9th: Not Everybody Loves Raymond.

By Johntalbott
5.0-6.0 Les Canailles, 25 Rue La Bruyere in the 9th, (Metro: St-Georges) 01.48.74.10.48, closed weekends and holidays such as Pentecote has been getting pretty good press (for instance Rubin's lead this week) and people seem to really like it, including my former cohost in the Web Wars.  But I'm getting ahead of myself.                 The exterior is (again) one of those minimalist gray front - but with the ancient Stella Artois Oriental Specialties sign still there, and when one enters there's a sign in English that says "Women not served here; bring your own" and the clock is reversed as in a mirror, so someone has a sense of humor.  The menu is quite comprehensive and interesting and the amuse gueule of spice bread with ham was really good.                   At this point our experiences diverged: Madame's green asparagus, egg and serrano ham being very good but my encornets with what was essentially ratatouille were just OK.                     Then for mains, again she and I loved her rascasse with tomato but my echine of farm pork with lentils was just OK. Madame ordered the sable with rhubarb and strawberries and again it was good.  Did I mention that the one, count him, one, guy in the front of the house, covered at least 30 covers with grace, efficiency and supreme friendliness?  And he split the dessert very graciously. With a bottle and glass of fine Fitou, no bottled water but two coffees our bill was 94 E. Go?  She will, I won't, which is really not fair but it's the way things work.

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