Destinations Magazine

Le Tourbillon in the 17th: Boy Has Cedric Tessier Whirlwinded into This Part of the 17th.

By Johntalbott

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6.7 (I wavered between ratings, but all in the 6.0-7.5 range*) Le Tourbillon (which means whirlwind), 116, rue des Dames in the 17th, closed Sundays (Metro: Villers) 09.83.01.10.81 is a whirlwind in this very trendy/hopping part of the 17th.  The exterior is once again, zen, the interior the same but the menu is intriguing.

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I was eating alone so I ordered some "bio" Cotes du Rhone which came with some lovely amuse-gueules of sardine mousses on toasted baguette pieces and a cheese "cookie."

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I started with gambas tempured-style that were perfectly sourced and cooked with a "chutney" of mangos and raisins on top of spicy rocket, or maybe that's vice-versa; then quenelles de brochet in not a Nantua sauce but one of an essence of green crabs that sopped up with the OK bread or spooned was simply delicious, with a mixture of white and crisp grilled rice; and ended with an array of sorbets, the most interesting of which was, of all things, strawberry.

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My bill, with nice coffee and even nicer mignardises, 50cl of wine and no bottled water comes in at 56 E but for a couple would be 101 E and with the 22 E menus, 73 E.  Noise level 64.1 playing the American Song Book but not intrusively.

Go?  I'd say so.  Yes, definitely.  Go!

* PS.  I pretend to rate only the food, not the decor, welcome, ambiance, silverware, prompt delivery of plates, niceness of the staff and chef, reasonable prices, etc., and I argue with my friend and fellow blogger R. who insists on rating the "whole experience" but it's all a bluff, all those things really do count.  And here everything was aligned in the right direction - that is - Up!


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