Destinations Magazine

La Table d'Aki in the 7th: Great Culinary Finesse, Poor Math Skills.

By Johntalbott

Apr-may 2012 031
7.0 La Table d'Aki, 49, rue Vaneau in the 7th, 01.45.44.43.48, is a place set up by Akihiro Horikoshi, ex of L'Ambrosie, where he is a one-man show; telephone-reserver, greeter, cook, waiter, sommelier, plongeur, addition-adder-upper, etc., for 16 covers.  So you gotta cut him some slack, even for the 34 E overcharge.

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The place is cool, really cool, the front so minimalist that it takes X-ray vision to realize there's really a restaurant inside.  And, as the culinary tour and cooking expert of my co-dining couple said, the stark white interior is offset by purple highlights that matched my shirt, so we fit right in.

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The carte is minimalist as well, one entree of the day, two mains and one dessert but a nice wine list starting at a comfortable 17 E a bottle, 5 E a glass.

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The starter was an outstanding combo of St Pierre, white asparagus and a delicious citrusy/salty white sauce.

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Madame had the cod with a wonderful Hollandaise sauce while the two guys had what was called the chicken in his style, a sliced breast with the same sauce as was served with the first course; but we weren't complaining, all dishes and sauces and veggies were magnificent.

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He and I then finished with the apple tart which was right up to the standard set by all the other dishes that came before.

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The bill was presented after the requisite three coffees and none of us checked it but he'd doubled the wine price(s); so it should have been about 93 E a couple.  (I'll go back Tuesday and knowing him, we'll get a rebate.)

Go?  My goodness YES!  Just check the bill.


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