Established by Chinese fashion designer Anna Yang in 2012, ANNAKIKI introduces a design philosophy balancing between tradition and rebellion and maintaining a strong independent character. Educated in fashion schools in South Korea and France, Yang’s first crossover collections for Disney, “Believe in Love” and “Lips”, launched in 2014 on amazon.com, became an instant success. To date, her brand has successfully exhibited in shows twice in China, and has been invited to showroom exhibitions at the 2014 and 2015 London and Paris fashion weeks. Read on as Yang elaborates on making it as an independent designer, creating awareness and visibility for her brand, and fortelling the future of Chinese fashion.
What were you doing before Annakiki and how did you decide to launch your own brand?
Being part of the fashion world was inevitable for me. I was born in a tailor’s family, so, since I was little, I got the chance to choose and try to make clothes on my own. Fashion is the most important way of expressing myself, because, in my opinion, “beauty” can mean many things. I can even say that fashion is my spiritual pillar, a love so natural that has been flowing in my blood.
Before ANNAKIKI, I was learning and accumulating my experience. I’ve also been a creative director of a fashion company, but I always wanted to build a brand that would represent “me,” or “us” who share the same thoughts, ideas and attitudes; a brand that would express the concept of beauty, transmit an attitude and also convey some kind of a lifestyle.
In what ways have you evolved from your first collection? What are the elements you always make sure to incorporate in every collection?
Each of my collections is inspired by my personal life; I just translate this inspiration using the fashion language and abstract or figurative expressions. Every collection begins with designing, but it’s not limited to a particular idea or direction; I’m always looking for something better. From the very first to the current collection, ANNAKIKI has been about “attitude.” This intuitive visual perception has always been inside my designs, and it is something an independent designer always keeps in mind. The only thing that is changing is the way of expressing myself. I am always looking for new inspirations, capturing interesting moments in my life, and using an appropriate way to express them – from the first collection, and the figurative patterns expressing emotions, to my next utilizing basic points, lines, surface elements and reconstructed materials, and then the most recent using natural materials and recycling fabrics.
Which you believe to be your brand’s strongest point?
I think it might be the clear attitude. Because ANNAKIKI is an independent brand, I want to be able to make people feel that the brand is special. So, to be memorable, we work on interesting patterns and selection of colors, and deconstruct fabrics and design, in order to propose an interesting attitude towards fashion; but at the same time strive to offer wearable pieces.
You have staged a show in China twice, and participated in London and Paris fashion weeks. Could you please rate for us this experience and explain how it has helped both the creative and business side of your brand?
Running a brand expands beyond design, because clothes need to be worn by people who understand and experience them. Therefore, fashion shows are a great way to ensure visibility and make people understand my brand; at the same time, I, as a designer, understand the needs of consumers and buyers, get everyone’s feedback on the collection, get to know the international fashion trends, and feel the atmosphere of the industry. This external display and communication, not only brings business insights, but also feelings of encouragement and motivation.
What are some aspects of business you invested resources when starting?
I opened a store in Shanghai, selling what I liked of my own designs. Because of the distinctive design style, a lot of Chinese media and consumers began to pay attention; sales were quite good, and that was my early accumulation of capital. So, in 2013 I decided to create ANNAKIKI, and up to now, my collections are available in many capitals around China. At the same time, in 2015 we set up our own offices in Milan, and we are ready to lay the foundation for further overseas promotion.
Where do you stand on rising designers conforming to trends vs creating exaggerating pieces – often not easily wearable – in order to appeal to an audience?
Every designer creates some exaggerating pieces to convey a certain brand image they want to communicate. But they should not get caught up in the notion of “design for design’s sake.” Design should be rendered out of something natural; it may be exaggerating but not getting out of control. Today, some designers are returning to fast fashion. The Asian street-style scene is a little bit “anti-design,” but even so, I think this trend will not last long, because people are becoming style-conscious. I am working hard with the latest trends, design and market, trying to find a balance point. I will maintain my own style while trying to go along with the trends. Each collection is 70% about ready-to-wear and 30% about the image of my brand.
The fashion industry is constantly moving forward. What are the most interesting changes you’ve noticed since you entered?
I think the biggest change is the consumers’ perception. With the current developments around social media, consumers receive more and more information easily. People need personality; they need to express themselves wearing what they like, and transmit their attitude to the world. The consumers’ demand for diversity helps independent designers, so there will be more of them in the future.
I am not excited about today’s fashion though. People are reducing their need of quality fashion; they don’t really need creative, rather than cheap clothes. This makes designers lose their energy to create. But for me, being an independent designer is about designing and creating. Creating for me is very exciting because there is no progress if I don’t create.
What are you working on at the moment?
I have been designing, and will keep designing in the future. For me, the most important thing is people who like ANNAKIKI and wear my clothes with surprise and satisfaction – they are my mission and sense of accomplishment. Fashion’s value lies between the consumer’s feelings and clothes. I usually like to try new fabrics and not look in the mirror first, because they need to be understood to be accepted. Putting it on and carefully discovering its attitude reveals the value of the design.
What is your ultimate goal through Annakiki?
As a Chinese independent designer, my ultimate goal would be that future Chinese designers would be worldwide recognized. Today, they keep growing in vision, creative ideas and techniques. They are also highly concerned about the international market. In Western countries, fashion industry has developed and matured, but in the recent years, the developments are slowing down, a fact that brings a lot of opportunities for Chinese designers.
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